HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR SINGAPORE LAYOVER - A MIX AND MATCH LISTING OF ACTIVITIES
Singapore is an ideal transit hub for exploring Southeast Asia and beyond. Low cost carriers connect Singapore with regional destination and national carriers connect Singapore with the rest of the world. At some point, while traveling through Asia, you will likely have a layover or a long-weekend in Singapore. Singapore's Changi Airport is consistently ranked as one of the best airports in the world - in addition to being efficient and well connected to the city center the airport has an unsurpassed amount of activities to keep the in-transit traveler occupied from video games, to movie lounges, to even a Balinese style pool. If you have an extended layover the airport provides a courtesy tourist bus service to the city's main sites. If you have a longer layover, extending twelve hours or more, it's best to forgo the courtesy services and explore the city on your own.
To make the most of a layover it's best to understand the travel "themes" of Singapore that distinguishes the city from other locations:
- Colonial Culture "Clash" - Stamford Raffles arrival in 1819 and his recognition of Singapore's potential as a trading and shipping site foretold the country's dramatic rise during the second half of the 20th century under founding father Lee Kuan Yew. Singapore's establishment as a free trade zone attracted several cultures interested in obtaining a slice of the financial action. Raffles organized the original settlement into distinct areas - the Colonial administration area was on the north side of the Singapore river. East and North of the administration area are Kampong Glam, the Malay area, and Little India, the Tamil / South Indian area. Across and along the river is the historical market area. Beyond the market area is Chinatown. Each of these areas has a distinct feel and on a short visit the priority should be to focus on walks and dining throughout these districts.
- Hawker Centers - Singapore is a renowned culinary paradise, although in a different sense than a Paris or Tokyo. What separates Singapore from these other cuisine oriented destinations is that Singapore's cuisine is incredibly cheap. A plate of Chicken Rice, one of Singapore's National Dishes costs about $5SGD. These low prices are possible because the food is served in a Hawker Center, a government operated food court designed to move street food stalls inside. The result is a cleaner and more boisterous environment. For a listing of potential Hawker Centers see my more detailed reviewed: Singapore Hawker Centers.
- Heat, Humidity, Afternoon Flash Downpours - The afternoons are not a time to be out exploring. The heat can be brutal and in some areas radiates off the cement pushing the heat back into your face. The only thing that interrupts the heat are the sudden downpours. A blue sky can turn gray in under thirty minutes. During this time of the day it's best to find a cool place to relax.
- Green - Singapore may be the World's Greenest City - not from a carbon reduction standpoint but from a parks and green space perspective. The city has consciously made an effort to space buildings apart with green areas and create parks throughout the island. If you are in Singapore for two or more days, it's worth checking out a distinguishing feature of Singapore's urban planning.
- Public Housing - you could spend time at the Marina Bay Sands, Sentosa, or in any other of Singapore's high rent areas...or you could check out a few public housing areas which house over 90% of Singapore citizens. Public Housing is all around and in most cases, fantastically done. It's worth taking a pass through a housing block to catch a glimpse of Singapore local life.
Below are a series of "activity options" that can be mixed and matched to create a unique travel itinerary. The options feature a series of stops in neighborhood and suggested amount of time. Singapore's convenient rapid transit system makes it relatively easy to travel between different neighborhoods. At the end I've grouped the options into a half-day, full-day, two day, and three day itineraries.
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OPTION A: Little India
DURATION: Two - three hours
THEMES: Colonial Cultures
Little India retains more of its historical cultural vibe than Chinatown (which feels too touristy) and Kampong Glam (which is a great area, it just doesn't feel very Malay). Little India is easily accessible via the correspondingly name MTR Station. Serangoon Road (a block below the MTR Station) is the neighborhood's main thoroughfare. The Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple, a south India style temple sits along this road - in the evening the temple fills with practitioners making offerings before heading home for the evening. Further down Serangoon Road and then a right onto Syed Alwi Road is the Mustafa Center, a 24-hour, department store of kitsch. In the afternoons the Thieves Market springs to life along Pitt Street. This flea market offers even more unusual items than Mustafa Center.
Indian food may be the most overlooked cuisine in Singapore. There's a tendency (and rightfully so) to focus on Singaporean dishes, however, the city's Indian food is fantastic. I hesitate to say it's better than Indian food in India but it's close. While there are a few better Indian food options outside Little India, this is still the easiest place to get your fix. Dunlop Road and side streets have a few dining options. The stretch of Race Track Road above the MTR Station is known as Curry Lane and has several restaurants to choose from.
DURATION: Two - three hours
THEMES: Colonial Cultures
Little India retains more of its historical cultural vibe than Chinatown (which feels too touristy) and Kampong Glam (which is a great area, it just doesn't feel very Malay). Little India is easily accessible via the correspondingly name MTR Station. Serangoon Road (a block below the MTR Station) is the neighborhood's main thoroughfare. The Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple, a south India style temple sits along this road - in the evening the temple fills with practitioners making offerings before heading home for the evening. Further down Serangoon Road and then a right onto Syed Alwi Road is the Mustafa Center, a 24-hour, department store of kitsch. In the afternoons the Thieves Market springs to life along Pitt Street. This flea market offers even more unusual items than Mustafa Center.
Indian food may be the most overlooked cuisine in Singapore. There's a tendency (and rightfully so) to focus on Singaporean dishes, however, the city's Indian food is fantastic. I hesitate to say it's better than Indian food in India but it's close. While there are a few better Indian food options outside Little India, this is still the easiest place to get your fix. Dunlop Road and side streets have a few dining options. The stretch of Race Track Road above the MTR Station is known as Curry Lane and has several restaurants to choose from.
OPTION B: Chinatown
DURATION: Two - three hours
THEMES: Colonial Cultures, Hawker Centers, Public Housing
Here's the deal with the primary section of Chinatown - it's very touristy. You'll find more Chinese trinkets on a few blocks here than anywhere in Hong Kong. Which brings me to my second point...if you are going to or have been to Hong Kong or China there' s not much substance to Singapore's Chinatown. There's a Buddha Tooth Relic Temple (no you can't see the actually tooth), another interesting Hindu Temple called Sri Mariamman, and Thian Hock Keng Temple, Singapore's oldest and holiest Toaist Temple.
The secret to Chinatown is to bypass these areas and walk west and south in the direction of Outram Park and Tanjong Pagar, respectively. The Keong Saik Road and Duxton Hill areas showcase how the younger generations of Singapore have embraced the cities past and injected a more youthful vibe. This area contains lots of cafes and restaurants and a much more local and relaxed vibe than the whirlwind Chinatown just off the MTR Station. From Keong Saik Road you can see The Pinnacle at Duxton in the distance. This apartment complex is the "pinnacle" of public housing. A rooftop deck spans across and connects the seven towers in the complex. You can pay $5SGD to access the roof which provides a great view into the financial district. Club Street is another hip spot away from the Chinatown tourist zone.
The line at Tian Tian Chicken Rice at the Maxwell Road Hawker Centre is worth the wait (closed on Mondays).
DURATION: Two - three hours
THEMES: Colonial Cultures, Hawker Centers, Public Housing
Here's the deal with the primary section of Chinatown - it's very touristy. You'll find more Chinese trinkets on a few blocks here than anywhere in Hong Kong. Which brings me to my second point...if you are going to or have been to Hong Kong or China there' s not much substance to Singapore's Chinatown. There's a Buddha Tooth Relic Temple (no you can't see the actually tooth), another interesting Hindu Temple called Sri Mariamman, and Thian Hock Keng Temple, Singapore's oldest and holiest Toaist Temple.
The secret to Chinatown is to bypass these areas and walk west and south in the direction of Outram Park and Tanjong Pagar, respectively. The Keong Saik Road and Duxton Hill areas showcase how the younger generations of Singapore have embraced the cities past and injected a more youthful vibe. This area contains lots of cafes and restaurants and a much more local and relaxed vibe than the whirlwind Chinatown just off the MTR Station. From Keong Saik Road you can see The Pinnacle at Duxton in the distance. This apartment complex is the "pinnacle" of public housing. A rooftop deck spans across and connects the seven towers in the complex. You can pay $5SGD to access the roof which provides a great view into the financial district. Club Street is another hip spot away from the Chinatown tourist zone.
The line at Tian Tian Chicken Rice at the Maxwell Road Hawker Centre is worth the wait (closed on Mondays).
OPTION C: Kampong Glam
DURATION: Thirty minutes, more if you choose to dine and drink in this area
THEMES: Colonial Cultures (kind-of)
Kampong Glam is home to Sultan Mosque, Singapore's Holiest Muslim Site. As of May 2015 the mosque is being renovated and the exterior is mostly covered. The appeal of Kampong Glam isn't from a sites perspective (although Sultan Mosque is impressive), it's from a leisure and nightlife perspective. Bussorah Street is a pedestrian, restaurant lined walkway leading to Sultan Mosque. Kampong Glam Cafe, on the south side of the street, is a great place of a late evening meal. Two streets over is Haji Lane - during the day this is an upscale, boutique shopping area, at night it's a quiet alternative to chill and relax than Clarke Quay and the city's nightclubs.
DURATION: Thirty minutes, more if you choose to dine and drink in this area
THEMES: Colonial Cultures (kind-of)
Kampong Glam is home to Sultan Mosque, Singapore's Holiest Muslim Site. As of May 2015 the mosque is being renovated and the exterior is mostly covered. The appeal of Kampong Glam isn't from a sites perspective (although Sultan Mosque is impressive), it's from a leisure and nightlife perspective. Bussorah Street is a pedestrian, restaurant lined walkway leading to Sultan Mosque. Kampong Glam Cafe, on the south side of the street, is a great place of a late evening meal. Two streets over is Haji Lane - during the day this is an upscale, boutique shopping area, at night it's a quiet alternative to chill and relax than Clarke Quay and the city's nightclubs.
OPTION D: Marina Bay and the Quays
DURATION: Two - three hours, more if you choose to dine and drink in this area
THEMES: Colonial Culture
If you are only in Singapore for an evening or shorter and simply looking for the place to go, with all the action, and somewhere to grab a meal and a beer, its Marina Bay and the Quays. South of the Raffles Place MTR Station runs a promenade along Marina Bay. Across the bay is Singapore's most iconic building, the Marina Bay Sands. Continuing along the promenade to the Singapore River leads to the Merlion, Singapore's top selfie photo destination. From here you can cross over a bridge for a closer look at Singapore's Esplanade Opera House and Colonial area or...
...you could continue around the bend to Boat Quay, the first of three drinking and dining areas along the Singapore River. Boat Quay is a first stop for many businesspersons after work. It's near the financial district and after five the outdoor seating starts to fill up quickly. Further upstream is Clarke Quay, a slightly more boisterous area and commercialized feel. Restaurants and bars line both sides of the river. A five minute walk north from Clarke Quay is Robertson Quay, which is quieter and low-key, reflecting the fact it's in a more residential area. Even further upstream is Zouk, one of Singapore's premier clubs.
If you arrive in Singapore in the afternoon and have a flight out the next morning probably the best course of action is starting at Boat Quay and working your way upstream to Zouk. This is also the most expensive option.
Brewerkz at Clarke Quay and Boomarang at Robertson Quay are the best (and really the only) places to watch major American sporting events. For drinking, I personally prefer Red Dot Brewhouse at Boat Quay - Red Dot is the only Singaporean owned microbrewery on the island. The original brewery location is in the Dempsey Hill retail complex.
DURATION: Two - three hours, more if you choose to dine and drink in this area
THEMES: Colonial Culture
If you are only in Singapore for an evening or shorter and simply looking for the place to go, with all the action, and somewhere to grab a meal and a beer, its Marina Bay and the Quays. South of the Raffles Place MTR Station runs a promenade along Marina Bay. Across the bay is Singapore's most iconic building, the Marina Bay Sands. Continuing along the promenade to the Singapore River leads to the Merlion, Singapore's top selfie photo destination. From here you can cross over a bridge for a closer look at Singapore's Esplanade Opera House and Colonial area or...
...you could continue around the bend to Boat Quay, the first of three drinking and dining areas along the Singapore River. Boat Quay is a first stop for many businesspersons after work. It's near the financial district and after five the outdoor seating starts to fill up quickly. Further upstream is Clarke Quay, a slightly more boisterous area and commercialized feel. Restaurants and bars line both sides of the river. A five minute walk north from Clarke Quay is Robertson Quay, which is quieter and low-key, reflecting the fact it's in a more residential area. Even further upstream is Zouk, one of Singapore's premier clubs.
If you arrive in Singapore in the afternoon and have a flight out the next morning probably the best course of action is starting at Boat Quay and working your way upstream to Zouk. This is also the most expensive option.
Brewerkz at Clarke Quay and Boomarang at Robertson Quay are the best (and really the only) places to watch major American sporting events. For drinking, I personally prefer Red Dot Brewhouse at Boat Quay - Red Dot is the only Singaporean owned microbrewery on the island. The original brewery location is in the Dempsey Hill retail complex.
OPTION E: Orchard Road
DURATION: One - two hours
THEMES: Heat
If you are looking to escape the afternoon sun Orchard Road is an easy escape. Malls stretch for a few blocks and although you may need to walk outside to go from one to another you will not be outside for long. The malls themselves are nothing to spectacular - there's a quasi outdoor section called Somerset 313 with dining and cafe options and the food court Ngee Ann City offers some cheap meals. The original Killiney Kopitiam, Singapore's first Kopitiam / Kaya Toast Coffee Shop is located at 67 Killiney Road.
DURATION: One - two hours
THEMES: Heat
If you are looking to escape the afternoon sun Orchard Road is an easy escape. Malls stretch for a few blocks and although you may need to walk outside to go from one to another you will not be outside for long. The malls themselves are nothing to spectacular - there's a quasi outdoor section called Somerset 313 with dining and cafe options and the food court Ngee Ann City offers some cheap meals. The original Killiney Kopitiam, Singapore's first Kopitiam / Kaya Toast Coffee Shop is located at 67 Killiney Road.
OPTION F: Sentosa Island
DURATION: Three - four hours (or all-day if you visit Universal Studios, the water park, or other attractions)
THEMES: Heat, Green (kind-of)
Singapore's "pleasure island" features several attractions in a resort / hotel integrated area. As an afternoon trip from Singapore Sentosa delivers. It feels manufactured but upon reaching the quieter waterfront sections of Palawan and Tanjong beaches the earlier commercialization of Universal Studios, other theme parks, and the Merlion starts to dissipate. On a weekday the beaches are quiet and the calm water provides a cool off after a walk in the sun. All beaches have shower, restroom, and locker facilities (although the lockers require old dollar coins). On the weekends it becomes a little more crowded. The Tanjong Beach Club at Tanjong Beach attracts an upscale clientele on Sunday afternoons.
After paying the $4 monorail fee all transportation on the island is free and convenient. There's lots of dining options although it's mostly Western chain fare and pricy. If it's an afternoon visit, eat at Food Republic in VivoCity which offers a mall food court hawker center dining option before catching the monorail to Sentosa.
DURATION: Three - four hours (or all-day if you visit Universal Studios, the water park, or other attractions)
THEMES: Heat, Green (kind-of)
Singapore's "pleasure island" features several attractions in a resort / hotel integrated area. As an afternoon trip from Singapore Sentosa delivers. It feels manufactured but upon reaching the quieter waterfront sections of Palawan and Tanjong beaches the earlier commercialization of Universal Studios, other theme parks, and the Merlion starts to dissipate. On a weekday the beaches are quiet and the calm water provides a cool off after a walk in the sun. All beaches have shower, restroom, and locker facilities (although the lockers require old dollar coins). On the weekends it becomes a little more crowded. The Tanjong Beach Club at Tanjong Beach attracts an upscale clientele on Sunday afternoons.
After paying the $4 monorail fee all transportation on the island is free and convenient. There's lots of dining options although it's mostly Western chain fare and pricy. If it's an afternoon visit, eat at Food Republic in VivoCity which offers a mall food court hawker center dining option before catching the monorail to Sentosa.
OPTION G: The Henderson Wave and Alexandra Village
DURATION: Three - four hours (depending on how fast you walk)
THEMES: Green, Hawker Centers
The Henderson Wave, is a dramatic pedestrian walkway connecting peaks in two parks, thirty-six meters above Henderson Road. The Wave Walkway is easily accessible via catching the 145 Bus from Redhill Station then walking up a flight off stairs near the bus stop. Once you've climbed the stairs and are on the ridge, the rest of the walk is downhill - literally and figuratively.
The boardwalk of the Henderson Waves provides excellent views of Singapore and outer islands looking south, however, the real attraction and sight is the walkway itself with the undulating ridges that run along one side. Like a wave the ridges rise and fall along the walkway providing a different viewing angle and photo opportunity at every step.
After exiting the Henderson Waves the trail somewhat disappears and turns into a street. A walk along the side walk eventually leads to the Forest Walk and Canopy Walk a series of elevated trails that cut through the Southern Ridges Park's treeline. The trail zigs and zags through the treeline providing an upclose look at Singapore's tallest foliage. The trail eventually leads to Alexandra Road where you can cross the Alexandra arch to the HortPark and Kent Ridge Park or head north to dining options in Alexandra Village. The walk from the start of the Henderson Waves to Alexandra Arch is about 2.3K. You can catch a bus on Alexandra Road to Queenstown Metro Station or its about 1.5K walk with a few places to stop and eat along the way.
Alexandra Village contains Singapore's most hipster hawker center - seafood, fried chicken, German, and French stalls vie for the coolest offerings. It's the only hawker center I've been to with a maitre d and assigned seating.
DURATION: Three - four hours (depending on how fast you walk)
THEMES: Green, Hawker Centers
The Henderson Wave, is a dramatic pedestrian walkway connecting peaks in two parks, thirty-six meters above Henderson Road. The Wave Walkway is easily accessible via catching the 145 Bus from Redhill Station then walking up a flight off stairs near the bus stop. Once you've climbed the stairs and are on the ridge, the rest of the walk is downhill - literally and figuratively.
The boardwalk of the Henderson Waves provides excellent views of Singapore and outer islands looking south, however, the real attraction and sight is the walkway itself with the undulating ridges that run along one side. Like a wave the ridges rise and fall along the walkway providing a different viewing angle and photo opportunity at every step.
After exiting the Henderson Waves the trail somewhat disappears and turns into a street. A walk along the side walk eventually leads to the Forest Walk and Canopy Walk a series of elevated trails that cut through the Southern Ridges Park's treeline. The trail zigs and zags through the treeline providing an upclose look at Singapore's tallest foliage. The trail eventually leads to Alexandra Road where you can cross the Alexandra arch to the HortPark and Kent Ridge Park or head north to dining options in Alexandra Village. The walk from the start of the Henderson Waves to Alexandra Arch is about 2.3K. You can catch a bus on Alexandra Road to Queenstown Metro Station or its about 1.5K walk with a few places to stop and eat along the way.
Alexandra Village contains Singapore's most hipster hawker center - seafood, fried chicken, German, and French stalls vie for the coolest offerings. It's the only hawker center I've been to with a maitre d and assigned seating.
OPTION H: The Northeast - Serangoon and Sengkang
DURATION: Three - four hours (depending upon bus connections)
THEMES: Hawker Centers, Public Housing
If Option G wasn't far enough off the beaten, Option H should put you in a completely new stratosphere.
Serangoon is home to one of Singapore's best hawker centers - Chomp Chomp. On a weekend night this place comes alive with a carnival like atmosphere. Chomp Chomp is well known but it's slightly difficult to reach with an MTR to Bus Transfer - also only opens after six pm.
Beyong Segangoon on the Northeast line is Sengkang. Sengkang is a huge public housing estate area and also home to one of Singapore's better public pools. Are Singapore's public pools an attraction? Are they worth seeing over Chinatown's temples? If you are looking for something unique and distinct to Singapore, this qualifies as a must see attraction. From the city center it takes about an hour to reach the Sengkang Sports Centre. Once here, $2 SGD gets you access to the pool and slide area. There are a few other public pools with slides, some have a lazy river, and all have awesome children pools, unfortunately they are all difficult to reach.
DURATION: Three - four hours (depending upon bus connections)
THEMES: Hawker Centers, Public Housing
If Option G wasn't far enough off the beaten, Option H should put you in a completely new stratosphere.
Serangoon is home to one of Singapore's best hawker centers - Chomp Chomp. On a weekend night this place comes alive with a carnival like atmosphere. Chomp Chomp is well known but it's slightly difficult to reach with an MTR to Bus Transfer - also only opens after six pm.
Beyong Segangoon on the Northeast line is Sengkang. Sengkang is a huge public housing estate area and also home to one of Singapore's better public pools. Are Singapore's public pools an attraction? Are they worth seeing over Chinatown's temples? If you are looking for something unique and distinct to Singapore, this qualifies as a must see attraction. From the city center it takes about an hour to reach the Sengkang Sports Centre. Once here, $2 SGD gets you access to the pool and slide area. There are a few other public pools with slides, some have a lazy river, and all have awesome children pools, unfortunately they are all difficult to reach.
OPTION I: Marina Bay Sands
DURATION: Six hours
THEMES: Who cares about themes - take my photo at the infinity pool
You could do none of the options above and be completely justified if you book a stay at the Marina Bay Sands hotels. Prices tend to be cheaper on the weekdays (I think locals may book a room as a weekend staycation). There's a casino in the basement although the main attraction is the infinity pool that runs along the rooftop and connects the three towers.
Level 33, the highest microbrewery in the world, in Tower One at the Marina Bay Financial Center provides great views of Marina Bay Sands if you want to see the hotel from a different angle.
DURATION: Six hours
THEMES: Who cares about themes - take my photo at the infinity pool
You could do none of the options above and be completely justified if you book a stay at the Marina Bay Sands hotels. Prices tend to be cheaper on the weekdays (I think locals may book a room as a weekend staycation). There's a casino in the basement although the main attraction is the infinity pool that runs along the rooftop and connects the three towers.
Level 33, the highest microbrewery in the world, in Tower One at the Marina Bay Financial Center provides great views of Marina Bay Sands if you want to see the hotel from a different angle.
SUGGESTED OPTION COMBINATIONS - I try to jam as much in as possible; if that's not your style adjust accordingly - in the Practical Information below I provide two social media recommendations - Burpple and Lady Iron Chef - that can assist to find coffee shops, cafe, and restaurants wherever you are on island.
- Half Day: Option D - consider heading over to Little India for lunch or Kampong Glam for dinner
- Full Day: Option B, Option A, & Option D - start in Chinatown, find a place with kaya toast for breakfast, head to Little India, circle back to Raffles Place and Clarke Quay areas - at night consider Kampong Glam
- Two Days: Day One - Option A, Option H, & Option D; Day Two - Option B, Option F or G, Option C
- Three Days: Day One - Option A, Option H, & Option D; Day Two - Option B, Option F or G, Option C; Day Three - Option I
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
- Social Media "Subscriptions" - prior to arrival I highly recommend reviewing Burpple, Singapore's Yelp / Instagram user sourced restaurant guide and following "Lady Iron Chef" on Facebook. Both sources will point you in the right direction of good restaurants and the current best place to eat. There's more to Singapore dining than Hawker Centers.
- MTR Card - For $12 SGD ($5 deposit and $7 value) you can pick up an MTR Card. This saves a lot of waiting in line at the Metro Stations to pay for individual rides.
- Other Attractions - Singapore offers several outstanding tourist geared sites, such as, the Singapore Zoo and the Jurong Bird Park. I can't attest personally to the quality of these sites, although they receive high marks from most visitors.
- National Dishes - it's worth researching Singapore's wide range of national dishes. The two typical "must tries" are Chicken Rice and Chili Crab. I may not have the taste pallet of a Singaporean but I think these two dishes are relatively consistent across locations. Tian Tian Chicken Rice at Maxwell House is the most reknowned and No Signboard Seafood in Geylang has a more local Chili Crab dining environment than the places along Boat and Clark Quays.
- Breakfast Options - most hostels include "breakfast" in the room rate. Breakfast tends to only be toast and coffee. Singapore has lots of great breakfast options for under $3 SGD. The two most infamous dishes are Kaya Toast and Nasi Lemak. Peanut Pancakes and Roti are also popular dishes. Kopi is a Singapore style sweet coffee. There are several Kopitiams, Singapore style coffee cafes, throughout the city and they make for a good local breakfast.