LAOS
Laos holds two unfortunate distinctions - first, it's the only landlocked country in Southeast Asia; second, it's the most heavily bombed country, per capita, in the world. Despite never officially being part of the Vietnam War, for the period between 1964 and 1973, every eight minutes an average of one B-52 bomb load was dropped on the country. Acerbating and continuing the problem today is that the majority of these bombs were cluster bombs and did not always detonate on impact. Thus, Laos, an otherwise peaceful and serene place, has a countryside filled with cluster bombs waiting to explode. Combine with the fact that 80% of the country is employed in Agriculture and it's no wonder the country still faces issues with bombings that occurred decades before. It wasn't until 1997 that the US acknowledged dropping the bombs and the cleanup effort still remains a primary NGO effort.
Amazingly, despite all the bombing, the Laotians do not seem to harbor any ill will to Western visitors. It was annoying to see Western Europeans become frustrated with Laos slow pace of life - they seem to forget the country is ruled by a military junta who came to power because the West has dropping bombs on the country in the name of capitalism.
Amazingly, despite all the bombing, the Laotians do not seem to harbor any ill will to Western visitors. It was annoying to see Western Europeans become frustrated with Laos slow pace of life - they seem to forget the country is ruled by a military junta who came to power because the West has dropping bombs on the country in the name of capitalism.
LAOS DESTINATIONS
LUANG PRABANG
|
MEKONG
|
PLAIN OF JARS
|
VENTIANE
|
From afar, Laos is a difficult country to reach but if you're in SE Asia there is a well worn travel circuit that starts in Thailand, heads down to Cambodia and eventually over to Vietnam. The circuit includes a wide range of activities and French/Asian fusion cities to spend the night - so cheap that you may want to consider the occasional splurge when deciding where to eat. Most backpackers do not seem to be aware of Laos's tragic history or the factory the country is operated by a military junta.
COUNTRY BACKGROUND
HISTORY
1300s -1700s: Kingdom of Lan Xang (Million Elephants)
1700s - 1800s: Three separate kingdoms (Luang Prabang, Vientiane, Champansak) at times paid tributes to Siam and Burma
1893: French protectorate (from Chinese)
1963: Independence
1975: Pathet Lao, led by Kaysone Phomvihane, overthrew king
GOVERNMENT
Socialist State with heavy political influence from Vietnam
Lao People’s Revolutionary Party singularly operates the country - 11 member politburo (military backed) and 61 member council dictate policy
Head of State/President: Choummaly Sayasone
Head of Government/PM: Thongsing Thammavong
ECONOMY
Socialist run country heavily reliant on outside investment; in recent years Western Countries / US have increased aid
Subsistence (self sufficiency) agriculture 50% of GDP; 80% of employment
EDUCATION
Literacy Rate - 73% - (83% male / 63% female)
Four levels of public education from age 3 to 17
Low accessibility, low teacher pay - English speaking teachers drawn to higher pay tourism, agricultural economy pulls students and staff
HEALTHCARE
Low cost / low quality - one of the last places on Earth you'd want to have a motorcycle accident...
Many hospitals lack adequate personnel and facilities are spartan in some cases lacking basic electrical and sewage facilities
Low salaries, infrequent payments, and limited access to supplies
1300s -1700s: Kingdom of Lan Xang (Million Elephants)
1700s - 1800s: Three separate kingdoms (Luang Prabang, Vientiane, Champansak) at times paid tributes to Siam and Burma
1893: French protectorate (from Chinese)
1963: Independence
1975: Pathet Lao, led by Kaysone Phomvihane, overthrew king
GOVERNMENT
Socialist State with heavy political influence from Vietnam
Lao People’s Revolutionary Party singularly operates the country - 11 member politburo (military backed) and 61 member council dictate policy
Head of State/President: Choummaly Sayasone
Head of Government/PM: Thongsing Thammavong
ECONOMY
Socialist run country heavily reliant on outside investment; in recent years Western Countries / US have increased aid
Subsistence (self sufficiency) agriculture 50% of GDP; 80% of employment
EDUCATION
Literacy Rate - 73% - (83% male / 63% female)
Four levels of public education from age 3 to 17
Low accessibility, low teacher pay - English speaking teachers drawn to higher pay tourism, agricultural economy pulls students and staff
HEALTHCARE
Low cost / low quality - one of the last places on Earth you'd want to have a motorcycle accident...
Many hospitals lack adequate personnel and facilities are spartan in some cases lacking basic electrical and sewage facilities
Low salaries, infrequent payments, and limited access to supplies
TRAVEL INFORMATION
INTRODUCTION
From afar, Laos is a difficult country to reach but if you're in SE Asia there is a well worn travel circuit that starts in Thailand, heads down to Cambodia and eventually over to Vietnam. The circuit includes a wide range of activities and French/Asian fusion cities to spend the night - so cheap that you may want to consider the occasional splurge when deciding where to eat. Most backpackers do not seem to be aware of Laos's tragic history or the factory the country is operated by a military junta.
HOTEL ACCOMMODATIONS
As the only SE Asian country without an ocean border Laos lacks any sort of beach resort - combined with the overall laidback vibe of Luang Prabang and Vientiane - paying upmarket rates would be out of character when visiting this country. The primary decision is whether to pay a few extra dollars $3-$5 to upgrade from a dorm room to a single bedroom. If you are traveling as a couple the upgrade may actually be cheaper on a per person basis. WiFi is surprisingly strong, even for the one-night stay in Pakbeng (until the power goes out).
Some French influenced (lots of baguette places) but the restaurants make it very easy to find traditional Lao food on the menu and in some cases will provide a brief background on the food to the uninitiated.
Tourism sites are condensed around the main towns - Luang Prabang, Phonsavan, Vientiane - making it relatively easy to see and experience Laos offerings without too much difficulty.
Huay Xai - border town worth crossing over the night before catching the ferry vs. spending a night in Chiang Khong
Mekong River Cruise - see: How To Guide
Luang Prabang - compact town center; Kuang Si Falls and other day trips
Phonsavan - Plain of Jars and other sites (Old Capital, Spoon Village, Whiskey Village, Hmong Village, Waterfalls) combined for a personal day tour
IN COUNTRY TRAVEL
It’s safe…I suppose. Boat, bus, minivan the common theme is that every seat will be sold and in some cases oversold.
From afar, Laos is a difficult country to reach but if you're in SE Asia there is a well worn travel circuit that starts in Thailand, heads down to Cambodia and eventually over to Vietnam. The circuit includes a wide range of activities and French/Asian fusion cities to spend the night - so cheap that you may want to consider the occasional splurge when deciding where to eat. Most backpackers do not seem to be aware of Laos's tragic history or the factory the country is operated by a military junta.
HOTEL ACCOMMODATIONS
As the only SE Asian country without an ocean border Laos lacks any sort of beach resort - combined with the overall laidback vibe of Luang Prabang and Vientiane - paying upmarket rates would be out of character when visiting this country. The primary decision is whether to pay a few extra dollars $3-$5 to upgrade from a dorm room to a single bedroom. If you are traveling as a couple the upgrade may actually be cheaper on a per person basis. WiFi is surprisingly strong, even for the one-night stay in Pakbeng (until the power goes out).
- Luang Prabang most of the hostels are a 15 minute walk from the City Center; in Vientiane there a 5 minute walk - both cities have boutique hotels in restored French colonial buildings
- No hostel options in Huay Xai, Pakbeng, Phonsavan - in each case there will be tuk tuks waiting to take you to a hotel they represent. It seems that it’s not so much a case of overpaying vs. receiving what you pay for; i.e. a $10 place will likely be twice as nice as a $5 place, but there’s not too much of a quality increase from the $10 place to the $40 place, particularly in Phonsavan.
Some French influenced (lots of baguette places) but the restaurants make it very easy to find traditional Lao food on the menu and in some cases will provide a brief background on the food to the uninitiated.
- Credit Cards are widely accepted, sometimes 3% additional charge
- Beerlao - at ~$1.50 / bottle you can drink the afternoon away with a view of the Mekong; the general consensus is this is the best beer in SE Asia, even more so if you've been drinking Chang Beer for the past month
- Luang Prabang has a few upmarket, quality restaurants befitting a UNESCO world heritage city - prices are double other restaurants in the area, but you’re still only paying ~$8 for a meal that would cost $25-$30 in the US.
- Mekong Seaweed appetizer; Lao “Salad” in chicken, pork, and fish varieties - the fish option is like a warm ceviche
- Mekong River Fish - a very meaty riverfish; deep-fried or grilled
- French Cafe Culture, although with the humidity it can be tough to enjoy
Tourism sites are condensed around the main towns - Luang Prabang, Phonsavan, Vientiane - making it relatively easy to see and experience Laos offerings without too much difficulty.
Huay Xai - border town worth crossing over the night before catching the ferry vs. spending a night in Chiang Khong
Mekong River Cruise - see: How To Guide
Luang Prabang - compact town center; Kuang Si Falls and other day trips
Phonsavan - Plain of Jars and other sites (Old Capital, Spoon Village, Whiskey Village, Hmong Village, Waterfalls) combined for a personal day tour
- Tours are personalized for the group and individual which is nice, but makes it incredibly difficult to book, particularly for an individual. Smaller tours also increases the price significantly, almost double. A day-trip for a group of 4 will cost 350,000 KIP per person; a group of 6 200,000 KIP per person.
- It’s best to from a tour group with the people on your minivan before arriving in Phonsavan between people who want to see all three Jar sites and those who only want to see the first one.
- MAG Cinema - you’re in the most bombed country in the world; you definitely need to take a Beerlao break and check out the films at this spot - three shows are shown nightly from 4:30 - 8:30
- Vientiane - sites are relatively spread out and if you’ve become a fan of Beerlao and want to check out the factory an all day city tour of 150,000 KIP is a good value. Otherwise it’s a series of 30,000-50,000 KIP tuk tuk rides to various sites. The city is biker and pedestrian friendly but humidity can be brutal.
IN COUNTRY TRAVEL
It’s safe…I suppose. Boat, bus, minivan the common theme is that every seat will be sold and in some cases oversold.
- Mekong River Cruise
- Bus - I saw someone sitting in the “jumper” seat in the stairwell of a VIP bus…
- Sleeper Bus - picture a sleeper train, but a sleeper bus; narrow aisle you’ll need to walk sideways - single size mattresses so hope it’s not a full bus and your not stuck sharing the mattress with a stranger
- Minivan - it will be packed; hope that you don’t wind up in the front middle seat