CAMBODIA
Thanks to recent government stability, unarguably the greatest archaeological site in SE Asia, and fabulous, yet to be discovered beaches, Cambodia tops several “Next Destination" lists. The recent stability may hide the horrors of the countries recent past, however, a few sites around the Phnom Penh memorialize lives lost under Khmer Rouge atrocities and brutalities. These sobering sites counterbalance the beaches and remind you how fortunate you are to have been raised in a country without fearing for your life when disagreeing with political leaders. A lasting impact of the Khmer Rouge is evident in the countries population demographics - of the 15.2 million citizens, almost half are under the age of 20.
Beaches, jungle, a French-influenced capital and the top Archaeological site in Asia - Cambodia is a rising and worthy alternative for those who think "Thailand" first - but...it's much more rugged and a "Do-it-Yourself" mentality without Thailand's tourist catering. The country is undergoing rapid tourist development as citizens realize the value of foreign dollars - new hotels are being built and better then expected restaurants that showcase the local cuisine are opening...if the country's infrastructure improves popularity will soar even higher.
Beaches, jungle, a French-influenced capital and the top Archaeological site in Asia - Cambodia is a rising and worthy alternative for those who think "Thailand" first - but...it's much more rugged and a "Do-it-Yourself" mentality without Thailand's tourist catering. The country is undergoing rapid tourist development as citizens realize the value of foreign dollars - new hotels are being built and better then expected restaurants that showcase the local cuisine are opening...if the country's infrastructure improves popularity will soar even higher.
PHNOM PENH
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SIEM REAP
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BEACHES
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COUNTRY BACKGROUND
HISTORY
800s - 1432: Khmers dominate SE Asia until Thais (Ayutthaya captured Angkor)
1400s - 1867: Tribute state to Thais and Vietnamese
1867 - 1953: French Colony
1953 - 1975: Constitutional Monarchy and Military Rule - communists and non-communists fight for control of country
1975 - 1979: Khmer Rouge / Pol Pot gains control of the country - eventually defeated by Vietnamese
1997: co-Prime MInister Hun Sen leads coup d’etat, purge non-communists
Tragic and complicated recent history: Pol Pot purchased military equipment from the Chinese but was defeated by Soviet funded Vietnam after he tried to conquer Vietnam. Under Pol Pot's direction communists attempted to return Cambodia to an agrarian society - millions of city dwellers were military marched to labor camps. The Khmer Rouge's reign resulted in the deaths of approximately two million people, roughly 25% of the country's population. The scale of devastation and loss of life is horrifying but when you read details of individual torture and deaths the inhumanity becomes even worse. Following Vietnam's invasion in 1979, Pol Pot retreated to a far corner of the Cambodia jungle. He died in 1998 having never been charged with any crimes against humanity, etc. Hun Sen is a former Khmer Rouge general who defected to Vietnam during an internal purge and later returned to fight against Khmer Rouge.
GOVERNMENT
Constitutional Monarchy - King is Head of State - Norodom Sihamoni
Single party “Democracy” - Hun Sen PM (elected "dictator") since 1985 leads Cambodian People’s Party
Bicameral legislature - lower house, National Assembly, direct elections; upper house, Senate, local party selection
ECONOMY
Communist/left leaning government but mostly free market economy; heavy influence from Thailand and Vietnam
164 out of 184 most corrupt - Transparency International's Corruption Index
Tourism fastest growing industry, 16% of GDP; 2nd largest after textiles, textiles = 80% of exports
EDUCATION
National policy and guidelines but decentralized administration; free education for first nine years
Literacy Rate: 78% - Male: 85% - Female: 71%...under 24 Male: 89% - Female 86%
HEALTHCARE
In past 10 years life expectancy has increased 10 years: 50 -> 60
Public and private healthcare facilities
800s - 1432: Khmers dominate SE Asia until Thais (Ayutthaya captured Angkor)
1400s - 1867: Tribute state to Thais and Vietnamese
1867 - 1953: French Colony
1953 - 1975: Constitutional Monarchy and Military Rule - communists and non-communists fight for control of country
1975 - 1979: Khmer Rouge / Pol Pot gains control of the country - eventually defeated by Vietnamese
1997: co-Prime MInister Hun Sen leads coup d’etat, purge non-communists
Tragic and complicated recent history: Pol Pot purchased military equipment from the Chinese but was defeated by Soviet funded Vietnam after he tried to conquer Vietnam. Under Pol Pot's direction communists attempted to return Cambodia to an agrarian society - millions of city dwellers were military marched to labor camps. The Khmer Rouge's reign resulted in the deaths of approximately two million people, roughly 25% of the country's population. The scale of devastation and loss of life is horrifying but when you read details of individual torture and deaths the inhumanity becomes even worse. Following Vietnam's invasion in 1979, Pol Pot retreated to a far corner of the Cambodia jungle. He died in 1998 having never been charged with any crimes against humanity, etc. Hun Sen is a former Khmer Rouge general who defected to Vietnam during an internal purge and later returned to fight against Khmer Rouge.
GOVERNMENT
Constitutional Monarchy - King is Head of State - Norodom Sihamoni
Single party “Democracy” - Hun Sen PM (elected "dictator") since 1985 leads Cambodian People’s Party
Bicameral legislature - lower house, National Assembly, direct elections; upper house, Senate, local party selection
ECONOMY
Communist/left leaning government but mostly free market economy; heavy influence from Thailand and Vietnam
164 out of 184 most corrupt - Transparency International's Corruption Index
Tourism fastest growing industry, 16% of GDP; 2nd largest after textiles, textiles = 80% of exports
EDUCATION
National policy and guidelines but decentralized administration; free education for first nine years
Literacy Rate: 78% - Male: 85% - Female: 71%...under 24 Male: 89% - Female 86%
HEALTHCARE
In past 10 years life expectancy has increased 10 years: 50 -> 60
Public and private healthcare facilities
TRAVEL INFORMATION
HOTEL ACCOMMODATIONS
The rapid tourism development means that the once low priced beach bungalows are being replaced with low rise and boutique hotels - there are still a few low priced options but these are a bit rustic compared to the next door high-end accommodations.
FOOD
Some of the national cuisine like Amok is similar to Thai, the cuisine also varies by region. Kampot Pepper is considered the finest pepper in the world. There also seemed to be many more western options and food prices were slightly higher than Thailand and Laos. Meal and beer = $9 vs. $6. I thought it was difficult to eat “where the locals eat” - I had good meals but was sitting with a lot of other Westerners - I think the fact that Cambodians still do not have much disposable income and you are staying in the relatively upmarket areas is the primary factor.
The country is roughly the same size as the state of Washington but a lack of paved roads means there are long, bumpy bus rides between cities. It’s brutal, this would be the one thing holding Cambodia back from being a popular tourist destination. The roads are so bad your body will be in pain from all the herky, jerky motion of the buses - it makes reaching the beach or Siem Reap that much more worthwhile. After enjoying bus travel throughout SE Asia, in country travel in Cambodia was tough.
Bus tickets cost $7-$9 but the buses aren’t as nice and the roads are poor compared to neighboring countries.
The rapid tourism development means that the once low priced beach bungalows are being replaced with low rise and boutique hotels - there are still a few low priced options but these are a bit rustic compared to the next door high-end accommodations.
- Sihanoukville - one of the most rapidly changing cities in Cambodia. Where you stay depends on if you want to spend time at the beach near your hotel or a day/multi-day trip to nearby islands. Koh Rong is the current buzz word for off the beaten path beaches and is an hour boat ride from Sihanoukville. If you are staying in Sihanoukville, Otres is the most sedate beach farther south from the main part of town.
- Kep - far less developed than Sihanoukville with limited restaurant options. There’s not really a bad location because it's a small area but there’s not really a good location with ocean views either. There are lots of deserted former French Villas - they are owned by political and military personnel waiting to cash in on the tourism boom. There’s also more limited options for activities compared to Sihanoukvile.
- Kampot - two hours from Sihanoukville, thirty minutes from Kep - there’s more activities based out of Kampot then Kep. I took a bus to Kampot then a 30 minute tuk tuk ride to Kep.
- Phnom Penh - Sisowath Quay is the main drag - many restaurants and nightlife in this area
- Siem Reap - Pub Street is the central point, but the town is built around tourism so there are many restaurant and bar options near wherever you stay - but you'll need to take a tuktuk to the city center area if you stay by the airport; there's also a lot of new construction east of downtown without the surrounding amenties
FOOD
Some of the national cuisine like Amok is similar to Thai, the cuisine also varies by region. Kampot Pepper is considered the finest pepper in the world. There also seemed to be many more western options and food prices were slightly higher than Thailand and Laos. Meal and beer = $9 vs. $6. I thought it was difficult to eat “where the locals eat” - I had good meals but was sitting with a lot of other Westerners - I think the fact that Cambodians still do not have much disposable income and you are staying in the relatively upmarket areas is the primary factor.
- Sihanoukville - if you are staying in the Otres beach area and don't venture out your dining and nightlife options will be limited to the hotels and a few stand alone operations
- Kep Crabs - one of the culinary highlights of SE Asia - I ate Kep Pepper Crabs for dinner, lunch, dinner. The Crab Market has several restaurant options all indistinguishable from one another. Trei was managed by a young entreprenuer.
- Phnom Penh - Sisowath Quay is the main commercial street. Brown Coffee is the local “Starbucks” and going to some of their locations will put you in "middle-class" neighborhoods you may not see otherwise. Lucky Burger is a local fast food chain.
- Siem Reap - well established tourist industry
- Sihanoukville / Kep - beaches, Kep has a small beach, but the rustic rabbit island is an easy day trip
- Phnom Penh
- Toul Sleng Genocide Museum and Killing Fields - consider reading When Broken Glass Floats or First They Killed My Father before visiting these sites
- Silver Pagoda and Royal Palace
- Sisowath Quay - westerner dominated but lots of Cambodians moving around
- Siem Reap
- Angkor Wat - obviously…the temple faces west and the reflecting pool is on the west so the best time for photos is in the afternoon
- Bayon - part of the greater Angkor Wat complex I think most people find this temple much more interested and less traffic too
- Tuk Tuk driver with a website to give you an idea on prices and tour packages:http://www.tuktothewats.com/
- Mini Golf: http://www.angkorwatputt.com/
The country is roughly the same size as the state of Washington but a lack of paved roads means there are long, bumpy bus rides between cities. It’s brutal, this would be the one thing holding Cambodia back from being a popular tourist destination. The roads are so bad your body will be in pain from all the herky, jerky motion of the buses - it makes reaching the beach or Siem Reap that much more worthwhile. After enjoying bus travel throughout SE Asia, in country travel in Cambodia was tough.
Bus tickets cost $7-$9 but the buses aren’t as nice and the roads are poor compared to neighboring countries.