SOUTH KOREA
South Korea's neighbor to the North seems to make headline news more often but people have started to discover that the democratic, free market bastion to the south is just as interesting...fortunately for completely opposite reasons. Over the past thirty years South Korea, Seoul in particular, has transformed from a sleepy country into an economic juggernaut comparable to it's Asian Tiger counterparts: Singapore, Hong Kong, and Taiwan. All four countries/cities are relatively similar although South Korea has a separate, non-Chinese based culture. Out of the countries 50.2m citizens, half, 25.6m, call the Seoul metro area home. For a country that's roughly the size of Indiana this means that for most people South Korea and Seoul are synonymous but the country does have more to offer beside college hipsters, k-pop, and themed cafes.
If China and Japan represent the dominant cultures in the Asian region, then South Korea represents the “cool” culture. While I was in Seoul an article appeared on CNN confirming that the “cool” culture wasn’t just in my mind but a concerted effort by the South Korean government and tourism board that seem to have been embraced by most twenty-somethings living in Seoul.
If China and Japan represent the dominant cultures in the Asian region, then South Korea represents the “cool” culture. While I was in Seoul an article appeared on CNN confirming that the “cool” culture wasn’t just in my mind but a concerted effort by the South Korean government and tourism board that seem to have been embraced by most twenty-somethings living in Seoul.
SOUTH KOREA DESTINATIONS
SEOUL
|
BUSAN
|
BASEBALL
|
COUNTRY BACKGROUND
HISTORY
936: King Taejo unified the Korean Peninsula
For the following millennium Korea was primarily an independent state; 1800s Chinese dependency; 1910 - 1945 Japan occupation
Aug. 15, 1948: South Korea “created”; 1950 - 1953: Korean War
1960 - 1987: Military dictatorships (‘60 - ‘79: Park Chung Hee)
1987: Democracy, first civilian elected president in 1992
GOVERNMENT
Three branch democracy with appropriate checks and balances:
1. Executive: direct elections of President (both Head of State and Government); one five-year term; current: Park Guen-hye (Saemuri party) - daughter of Park Chung Hee
2. Legislature: Unicameral; 299 members direct election, 56 proportional representation; Two major political parties represented - Saemuri (right): 156; New Politics Alliance for Democracy (left): 130
3. Judicial: Constitutional, Supreme, and Appellate courts
ECONOMY
Model "Free Market" economy with notable element: Chaebols - South Korea family controlled conglomerates wield significant economic, and by extension, political power; Chaebols led South Korea's economic rise but also stifled competition
Long term government planning paved development for highly advanced industries: ship building, automobiles, electronics
EDUCATION
Government supported (~20% of budget) public and private schools: compulsory first six years, then various secondary “tracts”
Consistent high results (97.9% literacy, Top 10 PISA), however, high intensity and questionable environment for creative/innovative development
HEALTHCARE
~6 % of GDP
Universal healthcare funded through taxes, tobacco surcharges, etc; typically in deficit position made worse by growing elderly population
936: King Taejo unified the Korean Peninsula
For the following millennium Korea was primarily an independent state; 1800s Chinese dependency; 1910 - 1945 Japan occupation
Aug. 15, 1948: South Korea “created”; 1950 - 1953: Korean War
1960 - 1987: Military dictatorships (‘60 - ‘79: Park Chung Hee)
1987: Democracy, first civilian elected president in 1992
GOVERNMENT
Three branch democracy with appropriate checks and balances:
1. Executive: direct elections of President (both Head of State and Government); one five-year term; current: Park Guen-hye (Saemuri party) - daughter of Park Chung Hee
2. Legislature: Unicameral; 299 members direct election, 56 proportional representation; Two major political parties represented - Saemuri (right): 156; New Politics Alliance for Democracy (left): 130
3. Judicial: Constitutional, Supreme, and Appellate courts
ECONOMY
Model "Free Market" economy with notable element: Chaebols - South Korea family controlled conglomerates wield significant economic, and by extension, political power; Chaebols led South Korea's economic rise but also stifled competition
Long term government planning paved development for highly advanced industries: ship building, automobiles, electronics
EDUCATION
Government supported (~20% of budget) public and private schools: compulsory first six years, then various secondary “tracts”
Consistent high results (97.9% literacy, Top 10 PISA), however, high intensity and questionable environment for creative/innovative development
HEALTHCARE
~6 % of GDP
Universal healthcare funded through taxes, tobacco surcharges, etc; typically in deficit position made worse by growing elderly population
COUNTRY INFORMATION
HOTEL ACCOMMODATIONS
Hostels cost between $15-$20 / night for a 6-8 person dorm room.
Seoul and Busan are both well serviced by metro systems - if your hostel is near a metro stop it’s easy to transfer between the airport, train stations, and areas of the city.
Where you stay will probably influence your view of the city - In Seoul, I stayed in Hongdae and for better and worse thought Seoul was a fun place that on the surface seemed to be a cool, hipster, creative spot but ultimately lacked any sort of diversity - it was the “same different”.
FOOD
A major drawback to Korean dining is that to participate in some of the more unique grilling / dining experiences is that you can’t dine alone.
Seafood and fried chicken seemed to be every other restaurant.
It was the spiciest “medium” cuisine of any country in Asia.
Food was relatively expensive - $10-$15/meal - so if you are trying to keep the budget low you’ll need to search off the main streets.
SITES, ATTRACTIONS, ADVENTURES
Korean Baseball Games - your experience may vary but a Friday night game at Jamsil Stadium will feel like you are attending a baseball game for the first time. The product on the field seemed on par or above MLB AAA but the real action is in the stands. I attended a second game in Busan and the crowd was more laid back - people were having pizza, fried chicken, and beer picnics in the outfield stands.
Seoul - the capital and largest cityFor Seoul I’ll simply reference this website: http://seoulistic.com/
Seoul’s main tourist area, the palaces, etc. is relatively compact and walkable
Busan - South Korea's second largest city and provides a glimpse that there is more to South Korea then just Seoul, Hipsters, and KPop
IN COUNTRY TRAVEL
High Speed and Slow Trains connect Seoul to Busan and all major cities in between. To Busan: high speed (KTX) trains costs ~$55 and take 2.5 hours; slow speed trains cost ~$27 and take 6 hours. The slow speed train is comfortable enough to fall asleep in the chairs.
Hostels cost between $15-$20 / night for a 6-8 person dorm room.
Seoul and Busan are both well serviced by metro systems - if your hostel is near a metro stop it’s easy to transfer between the airport, train stations, and areas of the city.
Where you stay will probably influence your view of the city - In Seoul, I stayed in Hongdae and for better and worse thought Seoul was a fun place that on the surface seemed to be a cool, hipster, creative spot but ultimately lacked any sort of diversity - it was the “same different”.
FOOD
A major drawback to Korean dining is that to participate in some of the more unique grilling / dining experiences is that you can’t dine alone.
Seafood and fried chicken seemed to be every other restaurant.
It was the spiciest “medium” cuisine of any country in Asia.
Food was relatively expensive - $10-$15/meal - so if you are trying to keep the budget low you’ll need to search off the main streets.
SITES, ATTRACTIONS, ADVENTURES
Korean Baseball Games - your experience may vary but a Friday night game at Jamsil Stadium will feel like you are attending a baseball game for the first time. The product on the field seemed on par or above MLB AAA but the real action is in the stands. I attended a second game in Busan and the crowd was more laid back - people were having pizza, fried chicken, and beer picnics in the outfield stands.
Seoul - the capital and largest cityFor Seoul I’ll simply reference this website: http://seoulistic.com/
Seoul’s main tourist area, the palaces, etc. is relatively compact and walkable
- Hongdae / Hongik University - the epicenter of “cool” Seoul; the college kid / Kpop culture went from exciting and different to the point that I couldn’t look at people without keeping a straight face - there’s a music reality show called “Show Me the Money” where all twenty contestants seem to be impersonating Eminem with Christian Rock lyrics - the manufactured creativity borders on the absurd.
- Gangnam - not all it’s cracked up to be
- KLive - hologram Kpop concert - combines the technology and music cultures
Busan - South Korea's second largest city and provides a glimpse that there is more to South Korea then just Seoul, Hipsters, and KPop
IN COUNTRY TRAVEL
High Speed and Slow Trains connect Seoul to Busan and all major cities in between. To Busan: high speed (KTX) trains costs ~$55 and take 2.5 hours; slow speed trains cost ~$27 and take 6 hours. The slow speed train is comfortable enough to fall asleep in the chairs.