JIM HAMILL
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HAWKER CENTERS

SINGAPORE
Hawker Centers are the quintessential Singapore dining experience and should top the list of Singapore "attractions".  Several years ago the government moved street food vendors indoors for sanitary, safety, and traffic precautions.  The result is that delicious street food, across a wide range of cuisines, is available in a single, comfortable setting for a remarkable low budget price.  Most meals cost below $6 SGD, creating a dilemma where you eat multiple meals in a single sitting.  Fortunately many stalls offer dishes in three sizes.  

Hawker Centers make for a great introductory Singapore experience - the country's best cuisine is easily accessible and you receive a glimpse of local life.  Once you've grown accustomed to the experience it becomes a nightly excursion to explore other areas of the country and try new Hawker Centers.

These pages will remain a continuous work in process so long as I live in Singapore.  My favorites and the ones I frequent the most are listed at the top - each of these has a separate sub-page reflecting how often I've patronized the stalls.

THE BEST

AIRPORT ROAD - 51 OLD AIRPORT ROAD - B/W  MONTBATTEN AND DAKOTA - CIRCLE LINE
The first Hawker Center I visited and thus my sentimental favorite.
ALEXANDRA VILLAGE - BLK 119 BUKIT MERAH LANE 1
Pretentious, hipster Hawker Center dining and it's absolutely wonderful.
airport road
alexandra village
CHOMP CHOMP - 20 KENSINGTON PARK ROAD - SERANGOON
Great spot on a weekend night - it has a bit of a carnival atmosphere.
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Chomp Chomp - Lights and Smoke
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BBQ Stingray
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Carrot Cake

AND THE REST

All the rest are great places, I've listed them alphabetical because it's difficult to separate and rank them individually  - I created a very short list of the first hawker center I ate at (Airport Road), a place that's upscale and very different (Alexandra Village), and my favorite weekend hawker center (Chomp Chomp).  All the others are just as acceptable, offer a wide range, and if I'm hungry and in the area they are very convenient.  The real value of visiting all these hawker centers is exposure to other parts of the city one wouldn't otherwise see and experience.  It's best to combine a visit with a nearby lightly visited attraction or site.
ADAM - 2 ADAM ROAD
This hawker center is a five minute walk from the Botanic Gardens Metro Station.  The exterior design and surrounding palm trees make it seem as though you've been transplanted to Southern California.  Inside the long lines at two of the dueling Nasi Lemak stalls move about as fast as Los Angeles traffic.  I queued in the shorter line with less than fifteen people but due to patrons making large orders (one guy placed at least ten takeaway orders) it was over forty minutes before I reached the front and ordered the Sutra Special which includes the namesake coconut milk rice, a fried egg, a fried chicken wing, some sort of wrap rice based item, peanuts, and dried fish.  It's not worth the wait but for $4.50 I can't complain.  I'll need to return and try the second stall to see how it compares.
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SoCal: Mid-Century Modern Architecture and Palm Trees
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Long, long wait
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Ringed Stalls, Seating in the Center
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Nasi Lemak
BEDOK - NEAR BEDOK SMRT STATION
There's a massive public works project taking place around the Bedok SMRT station.  One of the first sections completed is a new cooked food center. While the place looks new the stalls still retain their original feel.  There's a wide range of dining options, including all the classics, at this busy food centre.
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INTERNATIONAL FOOD STALL
CHANGI VILLAGE
Bourdain notes this place is "on the way to the airport" although its way out of the way - it's a thirty minute bus ride from the Tanah Merah MRT station.  There's not much to this hawker center that you will not find anywhere else and given the time involved reaching you may want to visiting Pulau Ubin before or after.
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CHINATOWN COMPLEX - 335 SMITH STREET
A much more local and commoners hawker center compared to nearby Maxwell although I've never...ever, ever, ever...seen so many Westerners at a "food" stall.  This place is difficult to find in the Chinatown Complex at 335 Smith Street.  Once you locate the stall , on the south side of the complex opening to Smith Street you'll be thankful for all the great beers on tap.  Since the stall is so small they rely on freight consolidators to bring them kegs from the US and Europe - thus once a keg runs out that's the end of that beer.  They're too small a shop to place individual orders with international breweries.

Other than the microbrewery stall there's probably over one hundred food stalls scattered along various sections of the second floor of the Chinatown Complex.  One the ground floor are merchandise shops - when they close up for the evening it looks like the building is shut down.  A pair of escalators lead up to the second floor and the dining area.
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Smith Street Taps
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A Very Good IPA
HONG LIM - 531A UPPER CROSS STREET
Definitely a lunch spot - I arrived at night and 90% of the stalls were closed.  Ji Ji wanton noodle specialist stays open til 7:30 and its a great option for an early dinner.  The wanton noodle dumplings and lo mien are fresh and taste homemade.  One of the few stall meals I left hungry on a single plate.
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LAU PA SAT / TELOK AYER MARKET - 18 RAFFLES QUAY
One of the historical and most well known hawker centres - lots of options including Japanese and Western.  It's also a great place to grab a beer in the business district.  It's been recently remodeled and resembles more of a mall food court (there's even a Wendy's in the complex) than a traditional hawker center.
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MAXWELL - 1 KADAYANALLUR STREET
Popular Chinatown hawker center home to the famous Tian Tian Hianese Chicken Rice. 

I've eaten here twice with vastly different experiences. The first time - no line and the chicken was bad, so bad I decided to return because there's no way this place could receive this many accolades for such a bad dish. The second time - twenty minute wait and the chicken was fantastic. Instead of getting a whole chicken I ordered the $3.50 chicken rice option which came with a boneless cut of chicken breast. Much better experience and it looks like I'll be returning for a third time sometime in the future.

Maxwell Food Center is in the heart of Chinatown making it a very convenient place to take a break and eat lunch after visiting the nearby temples and shopping streets.  It's a much better and more local experience than the Chinatown Food Street.
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Maxwell Center
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The Famous Chicken Rice
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And the Famous Chicken Rice Stall
NEWTON - 500 CLEMENCEAU AVE NORTH - NEWTON MTR
One of the larger and more accessible food Centres makes Newton popular with tourists and large tour groups.  Many of the stalls in the large inner circle provide wait staff while outer stalls have the self service you find at other centres.  I opted for duck noodles and popiam from stalls 12 and 13 on the far outer side of the complex.  The food centre is about a five minute walk across a pedestrian overpass from the MTR Station.
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Newton - Main Dining Area
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Stalls 12 / 13 on the Far Side
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Very Good Duck Noodles
TIONG BAHRU - 30 SENG POH ROAD
This food centre is located among the residential complexes in the Tiong Bahru area. The food stalls are located on the second floor of larger shopping complex. On a Wednesday night the place was quiet and at least 75% of the 100 stalls were closed - this is more of a breakfast and lunch food centre.  Given the environment and limited options I tried pig trotters for the first time - with the first bite I immediately recalled the time I watched a pig being killed and cooked in the Philippines...and I couldn't eat any more.
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Quiet on a Wednesday
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Very, very quiet
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Pig's Trotters
PEK KIO: 41A Cambridge Road - a five minute walk from the Farrer Park Metro Station
YEAN HENG PANCAKE - #01-32
For a first taste of Singapore's peanut pancake its best to start with the best - Yean Heng.  This stall prepares a large, 15" inch diameter pancake thats folded in half and grounded peanuts are placed in between.  The pancake is then cut into squares that sell for $0.60 SGD each.  It tastes good but it's a bit dry so purchase some OJ from the nearby 7-11.
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