There is a New York east of the East River. It's taken me much longer to "discover" Long Island then I'd like to admit. The discovery typically begins by exploring Brooklyn, then Queens but while both of these boroughs are technically on Long Island, they really aren't Long Island. Between the Hamptons and several other high end "escapes" Long Island feels a bit of a playground for the rich and famous to an outsider. The area is home to many year round locals, although, after many searches I have no idea where they eat breakfast.
THE NORTH SHORE
SAGAMORE HILL - OYSTER BAY
Sagamore Hill was the residence of one of America's greatest presidents, Teddy Roosevelt. The home has been preserved and left just as it was at the time of his death. That means there are animal furs on every floor, animal heads on every wall, and elephant tusks at several entrance ways. I learn something new every time I visit the residence. It turns out Teddy Roosevelt founded the NCAA. He also drank upwards of twenty cups of coffee a day - a habit he started as a youth to address his asthma.
Given the popularity of Roosevelt it's a good idea to reserve tickets to the house prior to arrival. In addition to the house tour there's a museum on the south side of the property that chronicles Roosevelt's life. The only drawback to the visit is that there's not a good place for breakfast in Oyster Bay.
Sagamore Hill was the residence of one of America's greatest presidents, Teddy Roosevelt. The home has been preserved and left just as it was at the time of his death. That means there are animal furs on every floor, animal heads on every wall, and elephant tusks at several entrance ways. I learn something new every time I visit the residence. It turns out Teddy Roosevelt founded the NCAA. He also drank upwards of twenty cups of coffee a day - a habit he started as a youth to address his asthma.
Given the popularity of Roosevelt it's a good idea to reserve tickets to the house prior to arrival. In addition to the house tour there's a museum on the south side of the property that chronicles Roosevelt's life. The only drawback to the visit is that there's not a good place for breakfast in Oyster Bay.
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SANDS POINT PRESERVE
Sands Point Preserve is the former compound of the Gould and Guggenheim empires. Today their estates have been turned into a preserve that is open to the public. There's greenspace and hiking trails. The main attractions are the former homes - the first home after the entrance is Castle Gould, modeled after Ireland's Kilkenny Castle. After completing Castle Gould, Gould's wife realized she did not want to live in a castle so they built Hempstead House. Hempsetead House is a couple hundred yards away and located right on the bay. Falaise, the Guggenheim's home, is the third mansion in the Preserve. Tours are infrequently available so if you are interested in seeing the inside of the house check the Sands Point Preserve website in advance.
Sands Point Preserve is the former compound of the Gould and Guggenheim empires. Today their estates have been turned into a preserve that is open to the public. There's greenspace and hiking trails. The main attractions are the former homes - the first home after the entrance is Castle Gould, modeled after Ireland's Kilkenny Castle. After completing Castle Gould, Gould's wife realized she did not want to live in a castle so they built Hempstead House. Hempsetead House is a couple hundred yards away and located right on the bay. Falaise, the Guggenheim's home, is the third mansion in the Preserve. Tours are infrequently available so if you are interested in seeing the inside of the house check the Sands Point Preserve website in advance.
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THE HAMPTONS
The Hamptons. A mythical fantasy land that Jerry and George escaped to a few times over the life of Seinfeld. A wonder world and playground for the super wealthy. One of the things that constantly amazes me with the U.S. is the diversity and how it's possible to travel a few miles and feel like you are in a different world. A weekend in The Hamptons feels like you've traveled to an alternative universe. For a few fleeting days The Hamptons provides a glimpse of an alternative world where drivers don't need to stop at stop signs. Where servants wait in line at restaurants. Where those with the means enjoy the spoils of life. Located on the eastern end of Long Island, The Hamptons offers access to an inaccessible world.
With a five am start, it takes a little over three hours to reach Love Lane Kitchen in Mattituck, NY from Bucks County, PA. Mattituck is on the northern fork of Long Island. Per the reviews Love Lane Kitchen offers one of the best breakfasts in the area. The breakfast was good but it's no Fred's. The restaurant is located on a tree-lined commercial street and provides an idyllic introduction into Long Island life.
With a five am start, it takes a little over three hours to reach Love Lane Kitchen in Mattituck, NY from Bucks County, PA. Mattituck is on the northern fork of Long Island. Per the reviews Love Lane Kitchen offers one of the best breakfasts in the area. The breakfast was good but it's no Fred's. The restaurant is located on a tree-lined commercial street and provides an idyllic introduction into Long Island life.
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There are various must stop locations in Long Island. One of them is Briermere Farm. Briermere Farm may have great produce but it's the pies with the fruit fillings that are legendary. Arrive when they open, buy a pie made fresh that morning, and leave happy.
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The Hampton's NIMBYism goes to extremes. On the positive side the communities have done a great job of preserving traditions and the communities local feel - there are a few Starbucks and CVSs, however, the rest of the towns are void of any signs of corporate America. A bit of a paradox given that the many of the residents here run the Fortune 500 companies that have expanded throughout small towns across America. As you may suspect there are a few high end boutiques and art galleries as well.
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We made Sag Harbor our home for the weekend. There's limited hotels in the Hamptons so the best bet is to find a place on AirBnB. We enjoyed the experience on the water and cooking our own meals. The Hamptons dining experience seemed to be lacking a little bit considering all the money that's in the area. Staying away crowds and traffic of Southampton, Bridgehampton and East Hampton help us appreciate the area a little more and feel more in place. We ventured down to East Hampton at night and it felt like a world away.
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The Hampton's is renowned for their lobster rolls. A search for the best yields a list of several places - all with long waits and all a little disappointing - a combination of over-hyped expectations and over priced food.
The dining scene reminded me of Los Angeles where there are a few "name" places, such as Scoop Dujour and Estia's Little Kitchen that attract huge crowds. Unlike Los Angeles there's not a number two or three place on the list of ice cream or breakfast places visit. Estia's is a truly Hamptons experience. It's about an hour wait for a decent meal - if you are a local just send your Filipino helper to reserve your place. If you're not they at least have some chairs and coffee while you wait. |
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Besides lobster rolls the Hamptons is a place of day drinking. Up and down Route 27 on the way to and from Montauk there are plenty of bars - some in the open some hidden. Unfortunately there's not too many places where the general public can access the beach. The NIMBYism has run rampant in beach access as well. Most of the beaches are private. Those that are open to the public charge a hefty entrance few and offer limited parking. We waited until after the sun set, then parked illegally to access a stretch of the beach.