I attended college in Winston Salem and one of my regrets is that I never studied abroad and never explored much of the area. I feel like I've settled the international regret but still have some work to do on North Carolina.
One of the best family travel memories is when we visited the Biltmore Estate in Asheville, NC. My brother and I spent the next month designing our own mansions. One the other end of the state is the Outer Banks, another Hamill vacation spot. There was a time when the Outer Banks were remote and rugged. Not sure if that's still the case or if traffic has started to build up.
North Carolina is also one of the best places in the U.S. to eat Bar-B-Que. The states specialty is pork and a place like Little Richards in Winston-Salem will be a definite stop whenever I return. Winston Salem has two other amazing, amazing, amazing places: Mountain Fried Chicken and Cook-Out. Cook Out Burgers taste like they were cooked right on the grill and their hush puppies are a much better compliment than fries. Thinking about Mountain Fried Chicken makes me want to hop in the car and head to Winston-Salem right now.
One of the best family travel memories is when we visited the Biltmore Estate in Asheville, NC. My brother and I spent the next month designing our own mansions. One the other end of the state is the Outer Banks, another Hamill vacation spot. There was a time when the Outer Banks were remote and rugged. Not sure if that's still the case or if traffic has started to build up.
North Carolina is also one of the best places in the U.S. to eat Bar-B-Que. The states specialty is pork and a place like Little Richards in Winston-Salem will be a definite stop whenever I return. Winston Salem has two other amazing, amazing, amazing places: Mountain Fried Chicken and Cook-Out. Cook Out Burgers taste like they were cooked right on the grill and their hush puppies are a much better compliment than fries. Thinking about Mountain Fried Chicken makes me want to hop in the car and head to Winston-Salem right now.
CHARLOTTE
A September 2016 visit ended a nearly fifteen year absence since I last visited Charlotte. The lasting impressions from that prior visit was a system of pedestrian overpasses that ran three stories above street level and connected a series of Uptown (that's Charlotte's "downtown" or "city center") skyscrapers and office complexes. The floors of the connected office complexes have food courts and other commercial offerings. 15 years later...that's still Charlotte's defining feature. Is it bad that a pedestrian overpass is a city's most defining image? Eh. It's definitely a unique, alternative tourist destination.
Charlotte's Uptown hosts all the big name hotel chains and several restaurants within walking distance that offer Carolina style BBQ (lunch place) and the broader Southern Cuisine (The Asbury, Kings Bakery, etc.). Not Just Coffee is a local place for a caffeine fix although the name is a bit misleading...there's not much more of an offering besides coffee. There's also plenty of dining options in this city defining pedestrian overpass that connects several skyscrapers downtown...oh wait.
Pedestrian overpasses as the defining feature. And yet I'd still move here from a cost of living consideration alone. The City Cneter area went from 25,000 residents in 2011 to 40,000 today - still small but a sign of the growth potential.
The far southwest end of the pedestrian overpass is near the...
A September 2016 visit ended a nearly fifteen year absence since I last visited Charlotte. The lasting impressions from that prior visit was a system of pedestrian overpasses that ran three stories above street level and connected a series of Uptown (that's Charlotte's "downtown" or "city center") skyscrapers and office complexes. The floors of the connected office complexes have food courts and other commercial offerings. 15 years later...that's still Charlotte's defining feature. Is it bad that a pedestrian overpass is a city's most defining image? Eh. It's definitely a unique, alternative tourist destination.
Charlotte's Uptown hosts all the big name hotel chains and several restaurants within walking distance that offer Carolina style BBQ (lunch place) and the broader Southern Cuisine (The Asbury, Kings Bakery, etc.). Not Just Coffee is a local place for a caffeine fix although the name is a bit misleading...there's not much more of an offering besides coffee. There's also plenty of dining options in this city defining pedestrian overpass that connects several skyscrapers downtown...oh wait.
Pedestrian overpasses as the defining feature. And yet I'd still move here from a cost of living consideration alone. The City Cneter area went from 25,000 residents in 2011 to 40,000 today - still small but a sign of the growth potential.
The far southwest end of the pedestrian overpass is near the...
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NASCAR Hall of Fame
I'm not a NASCAR fan. I'm not a car person. I hate driving. I almost turned around when I saw the entrance fee was $19.95. I'm glad I didn't.
The first exhibit in the Hall of Fame is a history of NASCAR video. Whether you are a fan of NASCAR, not a fan, or indifferent, there's not a better sport "conception" story than NASCAR. NASCAR's roots trace to the 1930s when during the Prohibition Era the only way to avoid the law during a moonshine delivery...was to have a car fast enough to avoid the law. Moonshine delivers tinkered with their car engines to increase speeds beyond legal limits. The "my car's faster" argument started and soon the moonshine delivers began racing one another sans cargo. Crowds soon followed. The first Daytona 500 races were on the beach. As cars became faster and popularity grew tracks and stadiums were built. The evolution of stock cars is no less different than the evolution of a baseball glove that went from a patch of leather to position specialties today. After watching this video I was revved up (pun intended) to see the rest of the Hall of Fame.
CLICK OR TAP IMAGES TO ENLARGE
I'm not a NASCAR fan. I'm not a car person. I hate driving. I almost turned around when I saw the entrance fee was $19.95. I'm glad I didn't.
The first exhibit in the Hall of Fame is a history of NASCAR video. Whether you are a fan of NASCAR, not a fan, or indifferent, there's not a better sport "conception" story than NASCAR. NASCAR's roots trace to the 1930s when during the Prohibition Era the only way to avoid the law during a moonshine delivery...was to have a car fast enough to avoid the law. Moonshine delivers tinkered with their car engines to increase speeds beyond legal limits. The "my car's faster" argument started and soon the moonshine delivers began racing one another sans cargo. Crowds soon followed. The first Daytona 500 races were on the beach. As cars became faster and popularity grew tracks and stadiums were built. The evolution of stock cars is no less different than the evolution of a baseball glove that went from a patch of leather to position specialties today. After watching this video I was revved up (pun intended) to see the rest of the Hall of Fame.
CLICK OR TAP IMAGES TO ENLARGE
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WAKE FOREST UNIVERSITY
I'm biased. I'm also my toughest critic. So it should be taken with no doubt that Wake Forest University is the most beautiful campus in the U.S. Maybe I'd put Princeton at the top of the list but from a style and flow standpoint no college can beat Wake Forest. I've often said that you couldn't build a better college from scratch if you tried...because, well, that is how Wake Forest was built. In the 1950s the R.J. Reynolds family offered Wake Forest University land and an endowment to relocate from Wake Forest, North Carolina to Winston-Salem.
I spent five years at Wake Forest obtaining a BS/MS in Accountancy. The school's interiors have changed a lot since I was a student - the lounge and dining areas feel more like a high end luxury hotel than a college. The Pit is no longer a pit. One of the all night study rooms has been converted to a Starbucks. The new business school is as nice a building I've seen in both an academic and professional setting. It's all downhill for these students once they enter the real world.
I'm biased. I'm also my toughest critic. So it should be taken with no doubt that Wake Forest University is the most beautiful campus in the U.S. Maybe I'd put Princeton at the top of the list but from a style and flow standpoint no college can beat Wake Forest. I've often said that you couldn't build a better college from scratch if you tried...because, well, that is how Wake Forest was built. In the 1950s the R.J. Reynolds family offered Wake Forest University land and an endowment to relocate from Wake Forest, North Carolina to Winston-Salem.
I spent five years at Wake Forest obtaining a BS/MS in Accountancy. The school's interiors have changed a lot since I was a student - the lounge and dining areas feel more like a high end luxury hotel than a college. The Pit is no longer a pit. One of the all night study rooms has been converted to a Starbucks. The new business school is as nice a building I've seen in both an academic and professional setting. It's all downhill for these students once they enter the real world.
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WINSTON SALEM DINING
I finally satisfied the Mountain Fried Chicken craving and the Cook Out and Barbecue cravings too. Unfortunately the Holy Trinity of Winston-Salem dining was not quite as good as I remembered. Mountain Fried had the same great taste but the wings had half the meat as before. One bite. Spin. Another bite. Done. Still not greasy though.
Cook Out was still amazing! Best hamburger ever. You can smell the grill while you eat. The hush puppies were nice and soft and the sweet tea is the perfect drink to wash everything down. Then Little Richards was another let down. I was still a bit stuffed but the pork not as "sharp" as I remember. It was a bit mushy and didn't taste quite as good as I remember. Still worth the drive to all these places.
I finally satisfied the Mountain Fried Chicken craving and the Cook Out and Barbecue cravings too. Unfortunately the Holy Trinity of Winston-Salem dining was not quite as good as I remembered. Mountain Fried had the same great taste but the wings had half the meat as before. One bite. Spin. Another bite. Done. Still not greasy though.
Cook Out was still amazing! Best hamburger ever. You can smell the grill while you eat. The hush puppies were nice and soft and the sweet tea is the perfect drink to wash everything down. Then Little Richards was another let down. I was still a bit stuffed but the pork not as "sharp" as I remember. It was a bit mushy and didn't taste quite as good as I remember. Still worth the drive to all these places.
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Winston Salem is also home to the original Krispy Kreme. The original store no longer exists, at least as far as I know and could research, but the city is still home to Krispy Kreme's corporate headquarters and several Krispy Kreme locations. Krispy Kreme stores are unique because the donuts are made on an enormous conveyor belt that runs throughout your visit. For the best taste experience request donuts straight off the conveyor belt. They will melt in your mouth. The amazing conveyor belt is both a blessing and a curse - it's a top attraction that produces the best donuts in the US; it's also raises franchise startup costs and lead to Krispy Kreme's collapse after over expansion.
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DURHAM AND DUKE UNIVERSITY
Durham is famous for a movie, Bull Durham. Durham's Triple AAA baseball team no longer plays in the same stadium that was feature in the film, however, the new "downtown" stadium is part of a revitalized business district that includes a transformation of former tobacco factories into commercial areas. Elmo's Diner is a great morning breakfast option in an older, quieter part of town. There's also some school. The school has gothic architecture, a pretty cool cathedral, and a basketball stadium.
Durham is famous for a movie, Bull Durham. Durham's Triple AAA baseball team no longer plays in the same stadium that was feature in the film, however, the new "downtown" stadium is part of a revitalized business district that includes a transformation of former tobacco factories into commercial areas. Elmo's Diner is a great morning breakfast option in an older, quieter part of town. There's also some school. The school has gothic architecture, a pretty cool cathedral, and a basketball stadium.
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Cameron Indoor Stadium
As a Wake Forest alumnus I am no fan of Duke. My dislike of the school has waned over the years as I become less interested in sports. Although, it still pains me to say this - Cameron Indoor is one of the top sports cultural events in the US and the only college basketball experiences that qualifies as something you must do at least once in your lifetime. |
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Counter Culture Coffee
In hindsight it was a bit foolish to be nervous about going to a coffee "tasting" as a tourist activity. I was worried the presentation would be lacking, there wouldn't be much coffee, and there'd be a lot of awkwardness if my dad and I were the only attendees. Total foolishness. This is Counter Culture Coffee we are talking about - one of the Big 3 Single Origin "founders" (the other two being Stump Town and Intelligentsia). Not visiting Counter Culture's headquarters and roasting facility in a Durham would be like missing a beer aficionado missing a trip to Sam Adam's in Boston. We weren't the only people thinking that - the hour long tasting attracted over 50 people - most dressed in flannels.
The first thirty minutes of the tasting included a high level overview of coffee and the coffee bean flavor wheel. We were then able to taste and compare a lighter and fruity coffee with a darker and earthier coffee. I've always preferred light coffees and now know why - the lighter the coffee, the lighter the roast and the more of the beans original flavor the coffee retains. Darker coffees retain more of the roast. The Counter Culture presenter likened it to the difference between lightly toasted bread which retains the taste of bread more so than a darker piece of toast.
After the tasting we went into the roasting facility for more information on this process and see all the sophisticated technology Counter Culture uses to perfect its roasts. It's a photo worthy facility inside and out. They operate out of an industrial complex that is a bit reminiscent of the Sanctuary facility from The Walking Dead. Fortunately there's nothing more sinister going on here.
In hindsight it was a bit foolish to be nervous about going to a coffee "tasting" as a tourist activity. I was worried the presentation would be lacking, there wouldn't be much coffee, and there'd be a lot of awkwardness if my dad and I were the only attendees. Total foolishness. This is Counter Culture Coffee we are talking about - one of the Big 3 Single Origin "founders" (the other two being Stump Town and Intelligentsia). Not visiting Counter Culture's headquarters and roasting facility in a Durham would be like missing a beer aficionado missing a trip to Sam Adam's in Boston. We weren't the only people thinking that - the hour long tasting attracted over 50 people - most dressed in flannels.
The first thirty minutes of the tasting included a high level overview of coffee and the coffee bean flavor wheel. We were then able to taste and compare a lighter and fruity coffee with a darker and earthier coffee. I've always preferred light coffees and now know why - the lighter the coffee, the lighter the roast and the more of the beans original flavor the coffee retains. Darker coffees retain more of the roast. The Counter Culture presenter likened it to the difference between lightly toasted bread which retains the taste of bread more so than a darker piece of toast.
After the tasting we went into the roasting facility for more information on this process and see all the sophisticated technology Counter Culture uses to perfect its roasts. It's a photo worthy facility inside and out. They operate out of an industrial complex that is a bit reminiscent of the Sanctuary facility from The Walking Dead. Fortunately there's nothing more sinister going on here.
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CHAPEL HILL AND UNC
Chapel Hill is one of America's quintessential "college towns". The University of North Carolina is a beautiful campus and the surround town is a perfect complement. Franklin Street is the main commercial thoroughfare. For years, from the time I was 8 until the time I was 18 I wanted to attend UNC. Something happened to change that desire. There was something paying a premium to attend a school with 80% in state students that lost its appeal to me when it came time to submit applications. The university is the town's major attraction. UNC is the oldest public university in the US (William and Mary is older but it was a private university for much of its history).
Every time I return the town's nickname Chapel Thrill becomes more tongue in cheek. Chapel Hill is great...for a night or two it seems exciting but it soon becomes redundant. He's Not Here is one of the greatest dive bars I've ever been to although calling this place a bar is a bit of a stretch. It's not much more than kegs, an outdoor space, and large blue cups. Top of the Hill is a more upscale offering.
Whether you have tickets to a UNC basketball game or not it's worth being in Chapel Hill for a game. Prior to tipoff Franklin Street is buzzing with everyone wearing their Carolina Blue. Once the game starts its quiet as everyone's headed inside to watch the game. An alternative to the Franklin Street scene but still an all UNC experience is watching the game from The Carolina Inn. The hotel is owned by UNC and worth a walk through. Crossroads, the hotel's restaurant, has Red Oak on tap. Red Oak is one of the best micro beers in the US. The beer is so good that the brewer only makes its namesake beer. While other microbreweries expand their selection and experiment with a never ending parade of fruits and hops, Red Oak has kept it simple. Red Oak's brewery is in Whitsett, about 45 minutes from Chapel Hill, although they only maintain business opening hours - M-F 9-5.
Chapel Hill is one of America's quintessential "college towns". The University of North Carolina is a beautiful campus and the surround town is a perfect complement. Franklin Street is the main commercial thoroughfare. For years, from the time I was 8 until the time I was 18 I wanted to attend UNC. Something happened to change that desire. There was something paying a premium to attend a school with 80% in state students that lost its appeal to me when it came time to submit applications. The university is the town's major attraction. UNC is the oldest public university in the US (William and Mary is older but it was a private university for much of its history).
Every time I return the town's nickname Chapel Thrill becomes more tongue in cheek. Chapel Hill is great...for a night or two it seems exciting but it soon becomes redundant. He's Not Here is one of the greatest dive bars I've ever been to although calling this place a bar is a bit of a stretch. It's not much more than kegs, an outdoor space, and large blue cups. Top of the Hill is a more upscale offering.
Whether you have tickets to a UNC basketball game or not it's worth being in Chapel Hill for a game. Prior to tipoff Franklin Street is buzzing with everyone wearing their Carolina Blue. Once the game starts its quiet as everyone's headed inside to watch the game. An alternative to the Franklin Street scene but still an all UNC experience is watching the game from The Carolina Inn. The hotel is owned by UNC and worth a walk through. Crossroads, the hotel's restaurant, has Red Oak on tap. Red Oak is one of the best micro beers in the US. The beer is so good that the brewer only makes its namesake beer. While other microbreweries expand their selection and experiment with a never ending parade of fruits and hops, Red Oak has kept it simple. Red Oak's brewery is in Whitsett, about 45 minutes from Chapel Hill, although they only maintain business opening hours - M-F 9-5.
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Every Halloween Chapel Hill, more specifically Franklin Street hosts the Halloween Party to end all Halloween Parties. The memories of my experience at the party are great...although a little foggy. Chapel Hill is a two hour chartered bus ride from Winston-Salem - just enough time to drink a fifth before hitting the Franklin Street party scene. It is (or was) total mayhem with everyone having a contest to see who could drink the most the fastest. The party became so out of hand that Chapel Hill began to curtail the activities. In my foggy memory I remember more bars and larger bars along Franklin Street. In its heyday the party attracted 80,000 plus revelers. In more recent years Chapel Hill has been celebrating a "Homegrown Halloween" which caps the attendance at about 25,000 locals and discourages others from busing in from farther away. Apparently they don't like people hopping off a bus after drinking a fifth and creating mayhem.
RALEIGH
Despite multiple visits I've spent less than five hours in Raleigh, though that short stay has made an impression, particularly compared to Charlotte. Raleigh seems a bit more residential and therefore seems to offer a bit more activities in the City than Charlotte which feels more like a commuter city. I could be wrong. Raleigh has a "line out the door" breakfast option at Big Ed's City Market. As the second half of the name implies Big Ed's is in a historical area, the home of one of Raleigh's original markets. From Big Ed's it's a short walk to North Carolina's Capitol Building.
A few blocks over is the Glennwood area which offers a wider selection of dining and drinking options. The north side of Glenwood Blvd is lined with beautiful houses, most of which feature ornate features and a wrap around porch. The setting is nice enough for me to think about moving here - that is until I search on Zillow and learn the houses cost upwards of $600K.
West of Town is the Raleigh Flea Market. Southern Living calls it one of the best flea markets in the South. I call it a Flea Market. The Flea Market had all the standard stuff with a solid collection of furniture stalls. What was most disappointing though is what wasn't there - Confederate era memorabilia. I was hoping to find enough items to put together a uniform for a Civil War reenactment. No luck. Even the Confederate flags were in short supply.
Despite multiple visits I've spent less than five hours in Raleigh, though that short stay has made an impression, particularly compared to Charlotte. Raleigh seems a bit more residential and therefore seems to offer a bit more activities in the City than Charlotte which feels more like a commuter city. I could be wrong. Raleigh has a "line out the door" breakfast option at Big Ed's City Market. As the second half of the name implies Big Ed's is in a historical area, the home of one of Raleigh's original markets. From Big Ed's it's a short walk to North Carolina's Capitol Building.
A few blocks over is the Glennwood area which offers a wider selection of dining and drinking options. The north side of Glenwood Blvd is lined with beautiful houses, most of which feature ornate features and a wrap around porch. The setting is nice enough for me to think about moving here - that is until I search on Zillow and learn the houses cost upwards of $600K.
West of Town is the Raleigh Flea Market. Southern Living calls it one of the best flea markets in the South. I call it a Flea Market. The Flea Market had all the standard stuff with a solid collection of furniture stalls. What was most disappointing though is what wasn't there - Confederate era memorabilia. I was hoping to find enough items to put together a uniform for a Civil War reenactment. No luck. Even the Confederate flags were in short supply.
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MOUNT AIRY
I wasn't expecting much and well…there isn't much. Mt. Airy has been memorialized in American Folklore because it's the home of Andy Griffin and thus the real life version of Mayberry from the Andy Griffith show. The town is mostly kitsch capitalizing on its past fame, however, on a cold February morning there's still friendly locals walking around to show there is daily life behind the famous facade. Snappy Lunch has a pork chop sandwich, that is supposedly one of the best lunches in North Carolina, however, early in the morning I opted for a sausage biscuit sandwich.
Ten miles south of Mt. Airy is Pilot Mountain a.k.a. Mt. Pilot per the show. It's even quieter than Mt. Airy.
I wasn't expecting much and well…there isn't much. Mt. Airy has been memorialized in American Folklore because it's the home of Andy Griffin and thus the real life version of Mayberry from the Andy Griffith show. The town is mostly kitsch capitalizing on its past fame, however, on a cold February morning there's still friendly locals walking around to show there is daily life behind the famous facade. Snappy Lunch has a pork chop sandwich, that is supposedly one of the best lunches in North Carolina, however, early in the morning I opted for a sausage biscuit sandwich.
Ten miles south of Mt. Airy is Pilot Mountain a.k.a. Mt. Pilot per the show. It's even quieter than Mt. Airy.
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