I don't know what to say about Manhattan. It can feel incredibly touristy. It can feel incredibly personal. The borough takes on all forms. The more I've traveled, the more I've seen cities that work, like Tokyo, Hong Kong, and Singapore, and to a lesser extent London and Paris, the more I wonder about Manhattan. I wonder why, a city that is the economic and cultural capital of the world doesn't feel like that wealth is on full display. The borough has priced itself out of being a leader of culture - if you want a cup of coffee it's going to be from a Starbucks or a Dunkin Donuts. If you want a beer, it's going to be an InBev product. But I keep returning. When I return now, I don't fight not being a tourist - instead I embrace it with a slight twist to my destinations. I visit the oldest bars in NYC or the best steakhouses in NYC or classic restaurants of NYC or best pizza in NYC. You can't go wrong with a place like The Grand Central Oyster Bar. Or splitting a pie at John's of Bleeker Street and then getting a slice at Joe's. There's no point in wondering about Manhattan or trying to rewrite the script. The place is what it is but it's not what it once was. I think this article captures my thoughts better than I could: The Village Voice: The Trencherman - the tale of two coffeeshops - I need to visit Caffe Reggio on my next trip to Manhattan.
WASHINGTON SQUARE PARK
Washington Square Park is my favorite place in Manhattan and on a sunny spring or fall day the park becomes a hive of activity. It’s my favorite place because its well balance—it’s busy but not too busy, there’s a flurry of activity but nothing too crazy, it feels like an escape from the city but the city is always visible. The best of Greenwich Village and SoHo are only a few blocks away.
Washington Square Park is my favorite place in Manhattan and on a sunny spring or fall day the park becomes a hive of activity. It’s my favorite place because its well balance—it’s busy but not too busy, there’s a flurry of activity but nothing too crazy, it feels like an escape from the city but the city is always visible. The best of Greenwich Village and SoHo are only a few blocks away.
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From here on the Manhattan page is organized by the islands three main areas: Midtown (the Manhattan of Manhattan), Downtown (Wall Street and Washington Square), and Uptown (which is a bit of a blank canvas for me).
MIDTOWN
ROCKEFELLER CENTER
New York City has certain experiences that everyone needs to participate in at least once in their life, no matter how touristy it may seem. The best example is ice skating at Rockefeller Center. You can’t visit this site winter after winter, see people creating magic, and not want to participate. Fortunately, it’s an easy process to book a skate time in advance and from what I recall, it was a relatively decent value. I believe thirty minutes of skate time and skate rentals was around twenty-five dollars. Even if you cling to the railing and brush little kids aside—it’s still magic circling the rink.
New York City has certain experiences that everyone needs to participate in at least once in their life, no matter how touristy it may seem. The best example is ice skating at Rockefeller Center. You can’t visit this site winter after winter, see people creating magic, and not want to participate. Fortunately, it’s an easy process to book a skate time in advance and from what I recall, it was a relatively decent value. I believe thirty minutes of skate time and skate rentals was around twenty-five dollars. Even if you cling to the railing and brush little kids aside—it’s still magic circling the rink.
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Midtown Manhattan never gets old. It's home to some of the most famous real estate in the world yet I always seem to check out the same addresses: The Time Warner Center, off Columbus Circle, the Apple Store, off Grand Army Plaza, and the Old King Cole Bar, hidden in the St. Regis. I stumbled upon the Old King Cole Bar in one of my "classic bars of NYC" searches - the bar is where the Bloody Mary was invented. You would think that a famous hotel, that invented a famous drink, would succumb to an onslaught of tourist activity - but it doesn't. This bar remains a quiet oasis in a buzzing corridor.
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SEINFELD NYC
Seinfeld will forever be my favorite TV shows. I continue to watch reruns more than twenty years after the series finale instead of newer shows. For a show that took place in NYC, there’s relatively few references to NYC establishments, and many of those that are referenced, are either long since gone or in the case of the exterior of Seinfeld’s apartment, never were in NYC to begin with (the exterior is from a building in Los Angeles). The one place that all Seinfeld followers should visit is Tom’s Restaurant at 2880 Broadway, who’s exterior served as the coffee shop where Jerry, George, Elaine, and Kramer always met. It’s completely different on the interior. It’s still worth checking out. Barney Greengrass got a very minor shout out—Elaine once started a conversation with “So, I got a piece of whitefish at Barney Greengrass the other day…” If you are looking for a Jewish deli, this is a great place to check out. Here's a couple of links to a few more Seinfeld locations:
Seinfeld will forever be my favorite TV shows. I continue to watch reruns more than twenty years after the series finale instead of newer shows. For a show that took place in NYC, there’s relatively few references to NYC establishments, and many of those that are referenced, are either long since gone or in the case of the exterior of Seinfeld’s apartment, never were in NYC to begin with (the exterior is from a building in Los Angeles). The one place that all Seinfeld followers should visit is Tom’s Restaurant at 2880 Broadway, who’s exterior served as the coffee shop where Jerry, George, Elaine, and Kramer always met. It’s completely different on the interior. It’s still worth checking out. Barney Greengrass got a very minor shout out—Elaine once started a conversation with “So, I got a piece of whitefish at Barney Greengrass the other day…” If you are looking for a Jewish deli, this is a great place to check out. Here's a couple of links to a few more Seinfeld locations:
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CENTRAL PARK
Visitors could spend a week exploring Central Park and the surrounding Museums. When you are planning iconic NYC activities, I think one of the most iconic is lacing up your sneakers and going for a morning run in Central Park. For the hour that I'm huffing and puffing around the park, I feel transported from my normal life to that of a New Yorker.
Visitors could spend a week exploring Central Park and the surrounding Museums. When you are planning iconic NYC activities, I think one of the most iconic is lacing up your sneakers and going for a morning run in Central Park. For the hour that I'm huffing and puffing around the park, I feel transported from my normal life to that of a New Yorker.
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MUSEUMS
Are the museums of NYC overlooked? When tourists visit do they focus on the Times Squares, the Empire State Buildings, the Central Parks, the Statue of Liberties? When I visit European capitals I always check out their great museums and art galleries but are visitors to NYC as eager to swing by the American Museum of Natural History? I think this is one of the greatest museums in the world. It has a great collection of historical artifacts from cultures around the world but I think the most impressive exhibit is the one that starts with the beginning of time and traces the growth of man through today. The exhibit covers key geological periods and is more interesting than any text book I’ve ever read.
Are the museums of NYC overlooked? When tourists visit do they focus on the Times Squares, the Empire State Buildings, the Central Parks, the Statue of Liberties? When I visit European capitals I always check out their great museums and art galleries but are visitors to NYC as eager to swing by the American Museum of Natural History? I think this is one of the greatest museums in the world. It has a great collection of historical artifacts from cultures around the world but I think the most impressive exhibit is the one that starts with the beginning of time and traces the growth of man through today. The exhibit covers key geological periods and is more interesting than any text book I’ve ever read.
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Across Central Park are a series of fine art museums—The Metropolitan Museum of Art (not to be confused with MoMA, the Museum of Modern Art), the Guggenheim, and The Frick. The MMA has the best collection, the Guggenheim is in the best architecture building, and The Frick is in the former home of Henry C. Flick who ran Carnegie Steel and helped create U.S. Steel.
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I enjoy visiting a City's main library branch and the New York Public Library is no exception - although I'm not sure this place even has books (I'm half joking). This library has parts that are 100% a museum. I thought a visit here would maybe be an off-the-beaten-path destination. Maybe... It wasn't. People flock to check out this amazing building. I'd estimate that half the people walking through the library are tourists - I'm not saying that as a negative - I'm saying this place is pretty cool and there's a reason people visit.
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I arrive in NYC via one of two ways: train to Penn Station or bus to the Port Authority Bus Terminal. Thus over the course of fifty visits to NYC, I never bothered to check out Grand Central Station. It's one of the great train stations of the world with a lower level food court that has a great donut shop, Doughnut Plant, and weirdly enough a great place for seafood in the Grand Central Terminal Oyster House. The Oyster House is worth visiting to grab a beer and enjoy the unique carved ceilings. A train station would typically be the last place I'd ever want to eat seafood, but the Oyster House is an icon. When in New York...
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THE VESSEL AND HUDSON YARDS
When I say that Manhattan only has room for corporate projects, that the Island has long passed its ability to create organic culture, I list the Vessel and Hudson Yards as my proof. As recently as 2009, Manhattan opened the High Line, which is a cool, awesome, only in New York City, former elevated train line that was converted to a park (Philadelphia has been trying to create something similar for over five years but the city can't get the job done, because hey we aren't New York). The Northern Terminus of the High Line is Hudson Yards, a major shopping, office, and residential area, that at a price tag of $25 billion, is the most expensive real estate development in the history of the United States. And how do you get people to visit, what is basically a mall? You commission a 150 feet tall funnel/spiral sculpture. Admission to the Vessel is free but I liked it enough that I'd pay twenty bucks for entrance. It's impressive from the outside but on the inside it's fascinating watching people walk up and down the stairs. Your eyes constantly dart from one platform to the next, never knowing where to focus. It's a mesmerizing attraction. Jose Andres' Mercado Little Spain is an ambitious attempt to create a Spanish equivalent to Little Italy - lots of dining options but not much sitting. A good place to check out during off hours.
When I say that Manhattan only has room for corporate projects, that the Island has long passed its ability to create organic culture, I list the Vessel and Hudson Yards as my proof. As recently as 2009, Manhattan opened the High Line, which is a cool, awesome, only in New York City, former elevated train line that was converted to a park (Philadelphia has been trying to create something similar for over five years but the city can't get the job done, because hey we aren't New York). The Northern Terminus of the High Line is Hudson Yards, a major shopping, office, and residential area, that at a price tag of $25 billion, is the most expensive real estate development in the history of the United States. And how do you get people to visit, what is basically a mall? You commission a 150 feet tall funnel/spiral sculpture. Admission to the Vessel is free but I liked it enough that I'd pay twenty bucks for entrance. It's impressive from the outside but on the inside it's fascinating watching people walk up and down the stairs. Your eyes constantly dart from one platform to the next, never knowing where to focus. It's a mesmerizing attraction. Jose Andres' Mercado Little Spain is an ambitious attempt to create a Spanish equivalent to Little Italy - lots of dining options but not much sitting. A good place to check out during off hours.
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ROOSEVELT ISLAND CABLE CAR
There are two actors/directors who have showcased NYC in their films more than any others - Woody Allen and Billy Crystal. In City Slickers Crystal featured the Roosevelt Island Tramway as part of his characters commute to work montage - Crystal was slammed up against the glass in a packed tramway. It took twenty years but I eventually put one and one together - City Slickers was filmed in New York, there was a tram in the movie, therefore there must be a tram in New York City.
You pick up the tram at 60th Street and 2nd Avenue but know two things: 1) Crystal over dramatized the commute - nobody's using the tram as part of their commute and if they are, they aren't pressed against the glass, because 2) there's not much on Roosevelt Island. In this case, the Tram is the attraction. When I reached Roosevelt Island all I saw was a retirement center. I thought it'd be a cool place to live and from moving Google Maps around I now see there's a few luxury apartments and a Bloomberg/Cornell Tech Center. Although given the Island has a subway stop, I'd still take the subway to Manhattan instead of the tram - at least on work days.
There are two actors/directors who have showcased NYC in their films more than any others - Woody Allen and Billy Crystal. In City Slickers Crystal featured the Roosevelt Island Tramway as part of his characters commute to work montage - Crystal was slammed up against the glass in a packed tramway. It took twenty years but I eventually put one and one together - City Slickers was filmed in New York, there was a tram in the movie, therefore there must be a tram in New York City.
You pick up the tram at 60th Street and 2nd Avenue but know two things: 1) Crystal over dramatized the commute - nobody's using the tram as part of their commute and if they are, they aren't pressed against the glass, because 2) there's not much on Roosevelt Island. In this case, the Tram is the attraction. When I reached Roosevelt Island all I saw was a retirement center. I thought it'd be a cool place to live and from moving Google Maps around I now see there's a few luxury apartments and a Bloomberg/Cornell Tech Center. Although given the Island has a subway stop, I'd still take the subway to Manhattan instead of the tram - at least on work days.
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Pete's Tavern - you can't go wrong with "oldest" or "classic" in New York.
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DOWNTOWN
Downton NYC is not only the financial capital of the world but also the old, original New York City, where New York City was founded. It’s an area that’s easily walkable starting with the Wall Street area. A statue of George Washington stands in front of Federal Hall. Diagonally across the Wall and Broad Street intersection is the New York Stock Exchange. A block up Nassau Street on the north side of Liberty Street is the Federal Reserve Bank of New York Building. The Charging Bull is a block west and south—I can remember when the bull wasn’t a tourist attraction and I find it strange that people line up to take a photo here instead of at the New York Stock Exchange.
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Beyond Wall Street there are other places to see in the lower Manhattan area. New York’s City Hall is near the entrance to the Brooklyn Bridge. It’s a well-protected facility and makes me realize how cool it is that Philadelphia's City Hall is incorporated into the surrounding environment - score one for Philly. The South Street Seaport Museum chronicles New York’s shipping past.
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8 Spruce Street / Beekman Tower is a Frank Gehry designed residential complex. If you’ve seen one Frank Gehry building, you’ve seen them all. If you are looking for a beer you have a couple of options but two I’ll mention are Fraunces Tavern and The Dead Rabbit Grocery and Grog. George Washington drank at one and the other was named the best bar in the world in 2016. One of these is awesome, the other over the type pretentious. Obviously go with Fraunces Tavern—the Washington choice.
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WORLD TRADE CENTER
I visited the World Trade Center once, when I was in middle school, and I remember there being an open plaza, with a fountain, and these large concrete balls that would prevent a truck from driving onto the plaza. I also remember exactly, I mean down to a yard, where I was when I learned the World Trade Center was attacked. I was on my way to a 9 am Stat Class, I had just crossed the C Parking lot and was on the southwest corner sidewalk between Reynolda Hall and the Benson University Center, when Casey Lawing said in a Southern twang "Did'ya hear a plane crashed into the World Trade Center?" By the time we left class an hour and fifteen minutes later the world had changed.
I've visited the World Trade Center memorial several times - there's two giant fountains in the footprints of the former towers. It's a solemn place. The Museum is a gut wrenching experience that recreates the history of the building and the events from 9/11.
I visited the World Trade Center once, when I was in middle school, and I remember there being an open plaza, with a fountain, and these large concrete balls that would prevent a truck from driving onto the plaza. I also remember exactly, I mean down to a yard, where I was when I learned the World Trade Center was attacked. I was on my way to a 9 am Stat Class, I had just crossed the C Parking lot and was on the southwest corner sidewalk between Reynolda Hall and the Benson University Center, when Casey Lawing said in a Southern twang "Did'ya hear a plane crashed into the World Trade Center?" By the time we left class an hour and fifteen minutes later the world had changed.
I've visited the World Trade Center memorial several times - there's two giant fountains in the footprints of the former towers. It's a solemn place. The Museum is a gut wrenching experience that recreates the history of the building and the events from 9/11.
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The World Trade Center subway stop is easily the most impressive subway station I've ever visited - it's a hub for several subway lines, has a first-class mall, and is stunningly beautiful. The viewing platforms and people scurrying below are either end are reminiscent of Grand Central Station, however, the ceiling is a tremendous feat of architecture creativeness.
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As I said at the top, there's no shame in dining at touristy places in NYC - but visit the places outside of the normal busy hours. If you visit Katz's Deli, made famous in When Harry Met Sally, but well-known to locals before that, there's nobody in the restaurant and you can take your time ordering, eating, and checking out the restaurant. We were actually able to grab the table where Meg Ryan faked her orgasm.
Not even a block west on Houston Street is Russ & Daughters. I attended an Anthony Bourdain speaking event and an attendee asked him a question about his favorite restaurants in New York. He deflected a bit, said he loved Papaya Dog, but then also mentioned that Russ & Daughters served his favorite breakfast - salmon and cream cheese on a bagel. I've been to Russ & Daughters a couple of times since hearing that, and yeah, the place is pretty awesome.
Not even a block west on Houston Street is Russ & Daughters. I attended an Anthony Bourdain speaking event and an attendee asked him a question about his favorite restaurants in New York. He deflected a bit, said he loved Papaya Dog, but then also mentioned that Russ & Daughters served his favorite breakfast - salmon and cream cheese on a bagel. I've been to Russ & Daughters a couple of times since hearing that, and yeah, the place is pretty awesome.
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STUYVESANT TOWN - PETER COOPER VILLAGE
I was going to create a New York City page specifically dedicated to off the beaten path locations. It felt like I'd be repeating information and it'd be better to organize by borough. Stuyvesant Town was the place I had in mind (in addition to the Roosevelt Tramway) as my initial off the beaten path location. Stuyvesant Town has 110 red brick buildings, containing 11,250 apartment units, that house over 21,000 residents. The massive apartment complex sits on 80 acres. Due to its size, you can wander around the complex and find parks and coffee shops that no tourist is accidentally stumbling upon. The visit has a zoo-like feel - instead of seeing animals in cages, you are seeing New Yorkers in coffeeshops. The 1st Avenue subway stop is on the southwest corner of the complex, otherwise you aren't finding this place unless you are looking for it.
I was going to create a New York City page specifically dedicated to off the beaten path locations. It felt like I'd be repeating information and it'd be better to organize by borough. Stuyvesant Town was the place I had in mind (in addition to the Roosevelt Tramway) as my initial off the beaten path location. Stuyvesant Town has 110 red brick buildings, containing 11,250 apartment units, that house over 21,000 residents. The massive apartment complex sits on 80 acres. Due to its size, you can wander around the complex and find parks and coffee shops that no tourist is accidentally stumbling upon. The visit has a zoo-like feel - instead of seeing animals in cages, you are seeing New Yorkers in coffeeshops. The 1st Avenue subway stop is on the southwest corner of the complex, otherwise you aren't finding this place unless you are looking for it.
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UPTOWN
Rucker Park may be the most famous basketball park in the world. Julius Erving dominated games here. New York legends like Kenny Anderson and Stephon Marbury honed their game here. Every one from Kareem Abdul-Jabbar to Wilt Chamberlain to Earl Monroe has played a game here. On a random Saturday, you can catch some youth leagues in action. I didn't notice any future NBAers.
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