My "Motherland". Part country. Part city. All American.
THE LANCASTER / LEBANON "CULTURE"
The Lancaster area is home to one America's great sub-cultures - the Amish. The Amish follow a traditionalist interpretation of Christianity that permeates from the Church to their daily life. The traditionalist interpretation can be seen in their clothes - men wear white and black, women were blue and purple - and their form of transportation - a horse and buggy. It's always a head turner when you pull into a shopping center and see the horse and buggy tied up in the parking lot. The Mennonites another religious subculture with a similar modest dress to the Amish although they embrace more conveniences of modern technology such as the use electricity and automobiles. Both groups are highly industrious.
The region is also home to distinct food. My favorites include Birch Beer, Lebanon Bologna, Scrapple, and Sugar Cookies. Liverwurst exists beyond the Pennsylvania Dutch cuisine, however, it's difficult to find in supermarkets beyond the Southeastern PA and Lancaster areas. If you ask for Liverwurst in California you will throw the deli counter for a loop. Deserts include Shoo Fly Pie and Whoopie Pies, which have many fans, myself NOT included.
The Lancaster area is home to one America's great sub-cultures - the Amish. The Amish follow a traditionalist interpretation of Christianity that permeates from the Church to their daily life. The traditionalist interpretation can be seen in their clothes - men wear white and black, women were blue and purple - and their form of transportation - a horse and buggy. It's always a head turner when you pull into a shopping center and see the horse and buggy tied up in the parking lot. The Mennonites another religious subculture with a similar modest dress to the Amish although they embrace more conveniences of modern technology such as the use electricity and automobiles. Both groups are highly industrious.
The region is also home to distinct food. My favorites include Birch Beer, Lebanon Bologna, Scrapple, and Sugar Cookies. Liverwurst exists beyond the Pennsylvania Dutch cuisine, however, it's difficult to find in supermarkets beyond the Southeastern PA and Lancaster areas. If you ask for Liverwurst in California you will throw the deli counter for a loop. Deserts include Shoo Fly Pie and Whoopie Pies, which have many fans, myself NOT included.
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LANCASTER
Lancaster is booming and has been going through a long-term revitalization. I travel west once a year or so for the outlets on the Eastern side of town without ever continuing all the way to Lancaster's business district. Definitely a mistake on my part. As the County Seat it's a great place to make a home base and explore the surrounding area. Lancaster has a bustling downtown that has fully participated in the hipster renaissance. There's a fancy coffee shop on every block - Passenger Coffee feels like it's been transplanted from SoHo. There's lines out the door at cupcake stores. There's even a store dedicated to pickles. There's plenty of microbreweries to complete the midday transfer from coffee to alcohol. |
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CENTRAL MARKET
Lancaster's Central Market is the oldest, continuously operated market in the US. As the name implies it's centrally located and the heart of Lancaster's business district. The market has about sixty stalls selling all things Pennsylvania Dutch. The area around the market can be a little hectic so it's best to find a parking spot or garage before hitting the surrounding traffic. A walk through this area showcases the city and adds another dimension to the Lancaster experience beyond the outlet malls and drive through the rural countryside. There's more diversity to the area and people of all types tend to congregate in the Central Market vicinity.
Lancaster's Central Market is the oldest, continuously operated market in the US. As the name implies it's centrally located and the heart of Lancaster's business district. The market has about sixty stalls selling all things Pennsylvania Dutch. The area around the market can be a little hectic so it's best to find a parking spot or garage before hitting the surrounding traffic. A walk through this area showcases the city and adds another dimension to the Lancaster experience beyond the outlet malls and drive through the rural countryside. There's more diversity to the area and people of all types tend to congregate in the Central Market vicinity.
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WHEATLAND
You'd think with Philadelphia's prominent historical role in the founding of the United States that the state of Pennsylvania would have had a few residents make it to the White House. New York has seven. Virginia has five. Ohio...Ohio has six. Pennsylvania only one. He also happens to be the worst President in the history of the United States so perhaps the state has been blacklisted from ever occupying the White House again. I'm referring to James Buchanan, who also happened to be America's only bachelor President.
You'd think with Philadelphia's prominent historical role in the founding of the United States that the state of Pennsylvania would have had a few residents make it to the White House. New York has seven. Virginia has five. Ohio...Ohio has six. Pennsylvania only one. He also happens to be the worst President in the history of the United States so perhaps the state has been blacklisted from ever occupying the White House again. I'm referring to James Buchanan, who also happened to be America's only bachelor President.
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HANS HERR HOUSE
My great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-grandfather's house. Unfortunately, despite a sign indicating otherwise, the facility was closed. The drive up alone, along Hans Herr Drive, no less, made me know I'll return in the spring.
My great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-great-grandfather's house. Unfortunately, despite a sign indicating otherwise, the facility was closed. The drive up alone, along Hans Herr Drive, no less, made me know I'll return in the spring.
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LEBANON
I've always viewed Lebanon and Lancaster as synonymous. It was were my ancestors were from and there was never a need to delineate between the two. These days the two are no longer synonymous. Lancaster has gone through a renaissance. The town and the surrounding area have a lot to see and do with all the accompanying microbreweries and coffee shops. Lebanon? The same cannot be said. Lebanon feels worn down it's shops and main street a salute to yesteryear not a hipster revival. There's a train store and a music store and other old fashioned stores that have been here forever and are not modern revivals. The dining and drinking, both coffee and microbrewery, options are more limited. Lebanon has it's charm though. There's still some great buildings and churches.
I've always viewed Lebanon and Lancaster as synonymous. It was were my ancestors were from and there was never a need to delineate between the two. These days the two are no longer synonymous. Lancaster has gone through a renaissance. The town and the surrounding area have a lot to see and do with all the accompanying microbreweries and coffee shops. Lebanon? The same cannot be said. Lebanon feels worn down it's shops and main street a salute to yesteryear not a hipster revival. There's a train store and a music store and other old fashioned stores that have been here forever and are not modern revivals. The dining and drinking, both coffee and microbrewery, options are more limited. Lebanon has it's charm though. There's still some great buildings and churches.
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LITITZ
What is the ideal Lancaster area town? The picture postcard town that captures small town America? Where do New Yorkers head when they want their taste of Amish country? What is the coolest small town in America? It's Lititz! Seriously. Budget Travel named Lititz the coolest small town in America. Lititz proves that a town can be adorable. It has a great commercial street with the only knock being the commercial corridor isn't much more than a quarter mile in length. At the far end of town Sturgis Pretzel Factory, a must stop for any five year old interested in making their own pretzels, is still going strong. Unfortunately, Wilbur's Chocolate Factory at the other end of town is being converted into condos.
Coolest small town in America isn't the town's only major award. USA Today also gave the title of Best Bar in America to Lititz's Bulls Head Public House. Bulls Head transfers you to England and has a decent food menu to go with the great environment.
What is the ideal Lancaster area town? The picture postcard town that captures small town America? Where do New Yorkers head when they want their taste of Amish country? What is the coolest small town in America? It's Lititz! Seriously. Budget Travel named Lititz the coolest small town in America. Lititz proves that a town can be adorable. It has a great commercial street with the only knock being the commercial corridor isn't much more than a quarter mile in length. At the far end of town Sturgis Pretzel Factory, a must stop for any five year old interested in making their own pretzels, is still going strong. Unfortunately, Wilbur's Chocolate Factory at the other end of town is being converted into condos.
Coolest small town in America isn't the town's only major award. USA Today also gave the title of Best Bar in America to Lititz's Bulls Head Public House. Bulls Head transfers you to England and has a decent food menu to go with the great environment.
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EPHRATA
It's the Ephrata Cloister. Not the Ephrata Cult. Followers of Johann Conrad Beissel were free to come and go as they pleased. A little bit of background - there were Germans, none as the Brethren, that took the Bible a little more seriously than the Lutherans, shared these views with the Lutherans...the Lutherans said "Guess what? You aren't part of Germany any more." In 1723 those Germans started to relocate to Philadelphia and started Germantown. Conrad Beissel followed the Brethren to Germantown - they weren't "extreme" enough for him, so he headed west, into the wilderness to be alone with his thoughts. Beissel was charasmatic enough that overtime three hundred followers joined him in Ephrata.
Beissel's core belief was that Jesus would return in his lifetime and to prepare for Jesus' arrival Beissel and his followers created an interesting set of practices. Beissel had a quasi yin and yang view of the world and believed God was both man and woman - the man part was the wrath and destruction, the woman part was the peace and kindness #feminism1732. At Ephrata Cloister this meant the men and women were celibate and lived in separate "dormitories" to create balance so they could marry Jesus when he arrived for the second coming. Followers slept six hours a night. They went to bed at 10. Then woke at midnight for a two hour church service. Then back to bed for another four hours. The beds at Ephrata Cloister were narrow benches, the pillows...blocks of wood, because the devil haunts dreams. That's were Beissel would have lost me - no way am I using a block of wood for a pillow, devil be damned.
The Cloister eventually faded away - with the whole celibacy thing it's kind of difficult to grow the flock. When Beissel died and Christ didn't appear, the remaining followers lightened the practices and began using normal pillows for the time. At $10 for a guide, hour tour of the facility, this was a great experience into a world I rarely venture. The guide leads the tour through the female's dormitory and their worship space, both original buildings and both were fascinating on the inside. The female's dormitory is a bit cramped but holding up well after nearly 300 years. That's good German construction.
It's the Ephrata Cloister. Not the Ephrata Cult. Followers of Johann Conrad Beissel were free to come and go as they pleased. A little bit of background - there were Germans, none as the Brethren, that took the Bible a little more seriously than the Lutherans, shared these views with the Lutherans...the Lutherans said "Guess what? You aren't part of Germany any more." In 1723 those Germans started to relocate to Philadelphia and started Germantown. Conrad Beissel followed the Brethren to Germantown - they weren't "extreme" enough for him, so he headed west, into the wilderness to be alone with his thoughts. Beissel was charasmatic enough that overtime three hundred followers joined him in Ephrata.
Beissel's core belief was that Jesus would return in his lifetime and to prepare for Jesus' arrival Beissel and his followers created an interesting set of practices. Beissel had a quasi yin and yang view of the world and believed God was both man and woman - the man part was the wrath and destruction, the woman part was the peace and kindness #feminism1732. At Ephrata Cloister this meant the men and women were celibate and lived in separate "dormitories" to create balance so they could marry Jesus when he arrived for the second coming. Followers slept six hours a night. They went to bed at 10. Then woke at midnight for a two hour church service. Then back to bed for another four hours. The beds at Ephrata Cloister were narrow benches, the pillows...blocks of wood, because the devil haunts dreams. That's were Beissel would have lost me - no way am I using a block of wood for a pillow, devil be damned.
The Cloister eventually faded away - with the whole celibacy thing it's kind of difficult to grow the flock. When Beissel died and Christ didn't appear, the remaining followers lightened the practices and began using normal pillows for the time. At $10 for a guide, hour tour of the facility, this was a great experience into a world I rarely venture. The guide leads the tour through the female's dormitory and their worship space, both original buildings and both were fascinating on the inside. The female's dormitory is a bit cramped but holding up well after nearly 300 years. That's good German construction.
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GETTYSBURG
Gettysburg is the ultimate pilgrimage site for any civil war history buff. The three day battle held on the southwestern side of the town resulted in over 51,000 casualties of which approximately 7,800 were deaths, the bloodiest battle in American history, and served as a turning point for America's path to victory over the Confederacy.
Little Round Top. Big Round Top. Seminary Ridge. Cemetery Ridge. The Devil's Den. These are the names of the great geological features of the battlefield that are etched in American History. I also get a free history lesson whenever I visit Gettysburg with my dad who’s read some new book on the battle since our last visit.
Our visits typically start via Seminary Ridge with a drive down Confederate Avenue. Monuments throughout the battlefield are dedicated to the states and their regiments. We wind behind the southern lines before crossing over Route 15 to Devil's Den and then up and around the Round Tops then pass the Pennsylvania Monument. If you arrive at night the best sunset views are from Little Round Top.
Gettysburg is the ultimate pilgrimage site for any civil war history buff. The three day battle held on the southwestern side of the town resulted in over 51,000 casualties of which approximately 7,800 were deaths, the bloodiest battle in American history, and served as a turning point for America's path to victory over the Confederacy.
Little Round Top. Big Round Top. Seminary Ridge. Cemetery Ridge. The Devil's Den. These are the names of the great geological features of the battlefield that are etched in American History. I also get a free history lesson whenever I visit Gettysburg with my dad who’s read some new book on the battle since our last visit.
Our visits typically start via Seminary Ridge with a drive down Confederate Avenue. Monuments throughout the battlefield are dedicated to the states and their regiments. We wind behind the southern lines before crossing over Route 15 to Devil's Den and then up and around the Round Tops then pass the Pennsylvania Monument. If you arrive at night the best sunset views are from Little Round Top.
Lee atop the Virginia Monument
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Pickett's Charge
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Sunset from Little Round Top
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If a battlefield can feel sacred, then Gettysburg feels sacred. If you can time your visit to avoid the heavy summer tourist season you'll be able to enjoy the eerily quiet morning. It's tough to imagine that such a bloody battle was fought over such a beautiful landscape.
Gettysburg has done a good job of preserving the battlefield from modern encroachment. US Route 15 / Emmitsburg Road divides the battlefield between the North and South positions, however, the undulating hills hide the passing cars. Gettysburg the town has a nice central square and commercial district. The dining scene has improved over the years, I think primarily because of the presence of Gettysburg College, the fact that the town is a county seat, and the population has held steady since the 1960s. It'd be a nice town to retire to. That said, there's no real reason to visit Gettysburg other than viewing the battlefield.
There is a weird thing about Gettysburg - the shops seem to cater towards fans of the Confederacy. There's more paintings, more memorabilia, just more stuff in general commemorating the South. For every ten paintings of Lee or Longstreet there's one painting of a Union general. Even driving through town you're as likely to see Confederate flags as American flags. It makes you wonder that if a hypothetical election were held today, who would win, Grant or Lee?
Gettysburg has done a good job of preserving the battlefield from modern encroachment. US Route 15 / Emmitsburg Road divides the battlefield between the North and South positions, however, the undulating hills hide the passing cars. Gettysburg the town has a nice central square and commercial district. The dining scene has improved over the years, I think primarily because of the presence of Gettysburg College, the fact that the town is a county seat, and the population has held steady since the 1960s. It'd be a nice town to retire to. That said, there's no real reason to visit Gettysburg other than viewing the battlefield.
There is a weird thing about Gettysburg - the shops seem to cater towards fans of the Confederacy. There's more paintings, more memorabilia, just more stuff in general commemorating the South. For every ten paintings of Lee or Longstreet there's one painting of a Union general. Even driving through town you're as likely to see Confederate flags as American flags. It makes you wonder that if a hypothetical election were held today, who would win, Grant or Lee?
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If you have a drone, Gettysburg is a cool place to take it out for a flight. You can reenact Pickets Charge and get overhead shots of Devil's Den to show how well the snipers could hide.
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YORK
Due to Lancaster being my family’s “motherland” and the additional forty-five minute drive, I have spent relatively zero time in York. Which is a shame because the town has been going through a bit of a revival in the past few years and is home to several interesting industries: a Harley Davidson plant (which has a great tour and is one of PA's hidden, great attractions), York Barbell (which is also home to the USA Weightlifting Hall of Fame), and several snack food purveyors (Hanover’s, Turkey Hill) are in the surrounding area. I could be wrong in this assessment, but York’s recent revival seems to have resulted in more restaurants per capita than Lancaster and I find myself trying to plan more trips out this way. ROOST Uncommon Kitchen’s Roost Special may have been the best breakfast I had on the trip – each component of the “scratch biscuit with apricot butter, crispy hashbrowns, crispy fried chicken, sausage gravy, and queso, topped with a fried egg” meal was individually good and complimented one another. ROOST was also centrally located and while waited for the meal to come out I walked around the city center. The city center has some heft to it – evidence of glory days that are since long gone. Another pleasant visit to York, not yet convinced I’d spend a night.
Due to Lancaster being my family’s “motherland” and the additional forty-five minute drive, I have spent relatively zero time in York. Which is a shame because the town has been going through a bit of a revival in the past few years and is home to several interesting industries: a Harley Davidson plant (which has a great tour and is one of PA's hidden, great attractions), York Barbell (which is also home to the USA Weightlifting Hall of Fame), and several snack food purveyors (Hanover’s, Turkey Hill) are in the surrounding area. I could be wrong in this assessment, but York’s recent revival seems to have resulted in more restaurants per capita than Lancaster and I find myself trying to plan more trips out this way. ROOST Uncommon Kitchen’s Roost Special may have been the best breakfast I had on the trip – each component of the “scratch biscuit with apricot butter, crispy hashbrowns, crispy fried chicken, sausage gravy, and queso, topped with a fried egg” meal was individually good and complimented one another. ROOST was also centrally located and while waited for the meal to come out I walked around the city center. The city center has some heft to it – evidence of glory days that are since long gone. Another pleasant visit to York, not yet convinced I’d spend a night.
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READING
Most people know of Reading from Monopoly. It's the first of four railroads players pass on their way around the game board. You may become excited thinking there will be a museum dedicated to the Reading Railroad. There is. But it's in Hamburg, PA - about thirty minutes north. I know of Reading from a minor league baseball game I went to as a kid. The Reading Phillies were playing the Harrisburg Senators, who were at the time an affiliate of the Montreal Expos. At the time the Expos had the best farm system in baseball. The Senators lineup included future major league players Cliff Floyd, Rondell White, and Curtis Pride. They crushed the Reading Phillies that night with both Floyd and White hitting two home runs each. I'm not sure the Reading Phillies or the rest of the town ever recovered. West Reading has a nice main street and the Reading city center has some massive buildings dating from the city's glory days. The town also has a bit of an oddity with a Chinese pagoda atop a hill on the eastern side of the city.
Most people know of Reading from Monopoly. It's the first of four railroads players pass on their way around the game board. You may become excited thinking there will be a museum dedicated to the Reading Railroad. There is. But it's in Hamburg, PA - about thirty minutes north. I know of Reading from a minor league baseball game I went to as a kid. The Reading Phillies were playing the Harrisburg Senators, who were at the time an affiliate of the Montreal Expos. At the time the Expos had the best farm system in baseball. The Senators lineup included future major league players Cliff Floyd, Rondell White, and Curtis Pride. They crushed the Reading Phillies that night with both Floyd and White hitting two home runs each. I'm not sure the Reading Phillies or the rest of the town ever recovered. West Reading has a nice main street and the Reading city center has some massive buildings dating from the city's glory days. The town also has a bit of an oddity with a Chinese pagoda atop a hill on the eastern side of the city.
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DANIEL BOONE HOMESTEAD
Daniel Boone was an American wilderness legend who's journey around the country side began in Pennsylvania. His homestead has a few articles from the period and a short video of Boone's historical highlights. The house has been reconstructed and there are a few other buildings that comprise part of a larger site. It's ok.
Daniel Boone was an American wilderness legend who's journey around the country side began in Pennsylvania. His homestead has a few articles from the period and a short video of Boone's historical highlights. The house has been reconstructed and there are a few other buildings that comprise part of a larger site. It's ok.
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