Center City has always been a dubious term for the area where Philadelphia’s two great thoroughfares, Broad Street and Market Street intersect. Sure there’s a Northeast Philly, a North Philly, a Northwest Philly, a West Philly, a Southwest Philly, and a South Philly…but the notable absence of an East Philly seems to make term center city ring hollow. Center of what exactly. At least the frustration with identify an appropriate term didn’t stop at naming Philadelphia’s Skyline district “Downtown” which considering there’s no uptown would have been even more of a misnomer.
I rarely use the term Center City. When heading to this area and walking around the nearby neighborhoods, I typically default to simply state “I was in the City.” Despite living in the city already, I can say I was in the City and people know exactly what I was referring to. It’s akin to heading to the beach when you are already down at the shore. Or perhaps the “City” was ingrained from growing up in the suburbs, where referring to Philadelphia as the City remains a colloquial term for where Philadelphia is its most “citiest” and the most common destination for suburbanites.
Whatever. I think of this section of Philadelphia as the section that pulls all Philadelphians together. It’s our Rockefeller Center. Our grand public square. Across the street and around the corner from City Hall are several other culturally significant attractions. But first…
I rarely use the term Center City. When heading to this area and walking around the nearby neighborhoods, I typically default to simply state “I was in the City.” Despite living in the city already, I can say I was in the City and people know exactly what I was referring to. It’s akin to heading to the beach when you are already down at the shore. Or perhaps the “City” was ingrained from growing up in the suburbs, where referring to Philadelphia as the City remains a colloquial term for where Philadelphia is its most “citiest” and the most common destination for suburbanites.
Whatever. I think of this section of Philadelphia as the section that pulls all Philadelphians together. It’s our Rockefeller Center. Our grand public square. Across the street and around the corner from City Hall are several other culturally significant attractions. But first…
I’ve always taken it for granted that how unique it is to have such an amazing city hall, that is an integral part of the city, sitting at the confluence of local politics, economics, and transportation with culture and cuisine radiating out. I see City Hall (or at least William Penn standing on the top) every day and don’t realize how unique this building is relative to other city halls across the U.S. City hall gives Philadelphia a European flare—a hint of historical sophistication. How badly do I take City Hall for granted? It took me until I was 39 before I took my first tour of the building.
A few interesting facts on Philadelphia’s City Hall:
When William Penn planned Philadelphia, he created four squares (now knows as Franklin Park, Washington Square, Rittenhouse Square, and Logan Circle). I always assumed that the land beneath City Hall had been a fifth square or an historical site of former town halls. Not the case. The current location was simply blank space, open roadway with a few make shift markets on the side. Over two hundred years since the City’s founding and when it came time to build a new city hall, boom, here was this amazing plot of land waiting to be developed.
The architect, John McArthur, followed the French Second Empire style when designing the building, which has held up extremely well over the years. Beyond the building’s structural aesthetics, it is adorned with over 250 individual sculptures, designed by Alexander Milne Calder, including a 27-ton, 38 feet tall statue of William Penn at the top of the building’s central tower.
I became so enamored with Philadelphia’s City Hall that I began to visit other city hall’s across the U.S. This lead me to appreciate Philadelphia’s City Hall even more. It’s not just the beauty and size of Philadelphia’s City Hall. It’s that the City Hall is smack dab in the center of everything that it was become as much a cultural icon, a photographic icon as any building in the city. The few city halls that come close to matching Philadelphia’s in beauty, come nowhere close to matching it in terms of cultural significance. Los Angeles’ City Hall is nice but it’s no hub, no activity magnet for Angelinos.
https://www.curbed.com/2017/6/1/15721360/city-hall-best-beautiful-architecture
https://www.phlvisitorcenter.com/CityHallTowerTour
https://philadelphianeighborhoods.com/2016/10/10/city-hall-eight-statues-that-help-tell-the-history-of-philadelphia/
A few interesting facts on Philadelphia’s City Hall:
- From 1894 to 1908 it was the tallest building in the world (during construction its height was surpassed by the Washington Monument and Eiffel Tower, however, those aren’t buildings, per se, so City Hall was able to hold the title of tallest building for a little longer)
- It became the first secular building, that is not built for religious purposes such as the Great Pyramids or European cathedrals, to claim the title as world’s tallest building; it overtook the Ulm Cathredal in Ulm, Germany
- Despite being past as the tallest building (the former Singer Building in NYC), it remains the tallest masonry structure in the world without a steel frame—the load bearing walls are twenty-four feet thick
- It remains the largest municipal building in the U.S.—there’s over 14.5 acres of floor space—to put that in context, City Hall is larger than the U.S. Capitol building in Washington, D.C.
- It was the tallest building in Philadelphia until 1988 when Liberty Place was completed – supposedly building above City Hall put a curse on the city’s sports teams although given the Phillies won one World Series in 100 years, blaming building heights seems like an invalid excuse for City’s sports futility
When William Penn planned Philadelphia, he created four squares (now knows as Franklin Park, Washington Square, Rittenhouse Square, and Logan Circle). I always assumed that the land beneath City Hall had been a fifth square or an historical site of former town halls. Not the case. The current location was simply blank space, open roadway with a few make shift markets on the side. Over two hundred years since the City’s founding and when it came time to build a new city hall, boom, here was this amazing plot of land waiting to be developed.
The architect, John McArthur, followed the French Second Empire style when designing the building, which has held up extremely well over the years. Beyond the building’s structural aesthetics, it is adorned with over 250 individual sculptures, designed by Alexander Milne Calder, including a 27-ton, 38 feet tall statue of William Penn at the top of the building’s central tower.
I became so enamored with Philadelphia’s City Hall that I began to visit other city hall’s across the U.S. This lead me to appreciate Philadelphia’s City Hall even more. It’s not just the beauty and size of Philadelphia’s City Hall. It’s that the City Hall is smack dab in the center of everything that it was become as much a cultural icon, a photographic icon as any building in the city. The few city halls that come close to matching Philadelphia’s in beauty, come nowhere close to matching it in terms of cultural significance. Los Angeles’ City Hall is nice but it’s no hub, no activity magnet for Angelinos.
https://www.curbed.com/2017/6/1/15721360/city-hall-best-beautiful-architecture
https://www.phlvisitorcenter.com/CityHallTowerTour
https://philadelphianeighborhoods.com/2016/10/10/city-hall-eight-statues-that-help-tell-the-history-of-philadelphia/
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There's several statues of famous Philadelphians that surround City Hall including John Wannamker and Octavius Catto.
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READING TERMINAL MARKET
Two blocks from City Hall is the Reading Terminal Market (Address), the terminus of the Reading Railroad of Monopoly board game fame and now a dining destination that is a hive of activity. There’s a Yoga Berra quote, “No one goes there anymore. It’s too crowded” that summarizes my view of the Reading Terminal Market. I don’t go here as much as I’d like, because it’s too crowded. I try to avoid the crowds by stopping around 5:30, shortly before everyone closes for the day at 6.
The market is home to a few restaurants with sit-in dining, however, the real excitement comes from wandering through aisle after aisle past a range of quick service food counters, Basset’s ice cream, Beiler’s donuts, grocery stores, butchers, fish mongers, bars, and flower stalls. If you need it, Reading Terminal Market has it. It’s not just quantity. Adam Richman, of Man vs. Food fame, named Dinick’s roast pork sandwich the best in America, one of the rare times that I would contend a national pundit has come close to providing the correct answer. I’m partial to the rib sandwich from The Rib Stand in the market’s northwest corner, but if there’s no line at Dinic’s, I always have room for a roast pork sandwich.
Two blocks from City Hall is the Reading Terminal Market (Address), the terminus of the Reading Railroad of Monopoly board game fame and now a dining destination that is a hive of activity. There’s a Yoga Berra quote, “No one goes there anymore. It’s too crowded” that summarizes my view of the Reading Terminal Market. I don’t go here as much as I’d like, because it’s too crowded. I try to avoid the crowds by stopping around 5:30, shortly before everyone closes for the day at 6.
The market is home to a few restaurants with sit-in dining, however, the real excitement comes from wandering through aisle after aisle past a range of quick service food counters, Basset’s ice cream, Beiler’s donuts, grocery stores, butchers, fish mongers, bars, and flower stalls. If you need it, Reading Terminal Market has it. It’s not just quantity. Adam Richman, of Man vs. Food fame, named Dinick’s roast pork sandwich the best in America, one of the rare times that I would contend a national pundit has come close to providing the correct answer. I’m partial to the rib sandwich from The Rib Stand in the market’s northwest corner, but if there’s no line at Dinic’s, I always have room for a roast pork sandwich.
MACYS' (formerly and always Wanamaker’s)
To City Hall’s southeast sits Macy’s in one of America’s Grand Dame department stores. Macy’s took over the property several years after Wanamaker’s, a local department store, ceased operations. Wanamaker's was one of the first department stores in the U.S. and thus one of the first to introduce a fixed-price system, a.k.a. price tags. The Wanamaker building was a former railroad depot and John Wanamaker set out to convert the depot into a grand European-style marketplace like Paris's Les Halles. I think he succeeded.
Macy’s has been a good corporate steward of two of Philadelphia’s great Christmas traditions – a lightshow with organ played Christmas music and Dicken’s Village (which was previously run out of Strawbridge’s, another local department store that was big boxed out of existence, at 5th and Market). That a boring lightshow and creepy animatronics telling Dicken’s A Christmas Story count as Philadelphia Christmas traditions may be parents’ attempts to give their children psychology issues to deal with later in life. The lightshow put me to sleep, the animatronics gave me nightmares. Great combo.
To City Hall’s southeast sits Macy’s in one of America’s Grand Dame department stores. Macy’s took over the property several years after Wanamaker’s, a local department store, ceased operations. Wanamaker's was one of the first department stores in the U.S. and thus one of the first to introduce a fixed-price system, a.k.a. price tags. The Wanamaker building was a former railroad depot and John Wanamaker set out to convert the depot into a grand European-style marketplace like Paris's Les Halles. I think he succeeded.
Macy’s has been a good corporate steward of two of Philadelphia’s great Christmas traditions – a lightshow with organ played Christmas music and Dicken’s Village (which was previously run out of Strawbridge’s, another local department store that was big boxed out of existence, at 5th and Market). That a boring lightshow and creepy animatronics telling Dicken’s A Christmas Story count as Philadelphia Christmas traditions may be parents’ attempts to give their children psychology issues to deal with later in life. The lightshow put me to sleep, the animatronics gave me nightmares. Great combo.
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MUNICIPAL SERVICES BUILDING
Across the northwest corner of City Hall is Philadelphia's Municipal Services building where you will be greeted by Frank Rizzo, Philadelphia's "law and order" mayor of the 1970s. Chances are if you need to get something done in Philadelphia, this is where you head. Assuming you can actually get something done in Philadelphia. If you ever want a glimpse of a local government in all its inefficient glory head down the escalator's in this building to the basement, home to Philadelphia's glorious Licenses and Inspections Department.
This area is a depressing public space. There always seems to be a whirlwind cycling trash across the plaza. Instead of filling the park with inspire artwork and sculptures, city planners green lit a plaza filled with game pieces. And not even good game pieces. We are talking about Parchesi tiles. Instead of the Monopoly racecare, it’s the wheelbarrow. At least it’s not the thimble
Across the northwest corner of City Hall is Philadelphia's Municipal Services building where you will be greeted by Frank Rizzo, Philadelphia's "law and order" mayor of the 1970s. Chances are if you need to get something done in Philadelphia, this is where you head. Assuming you can actually get something done in Philadelphia. If you ever want a glimpse of a local government in all its inefficient glory head down the escalator's in this building to the basement, home to Philadelphia's glorious Licenses and Inspections Department.
This area is a depressing public space. There always seems to be a whirlwind cycling trash across the plaza. Instead of filling the park with inspire artwork and sculptures, city planners green lit a plaza filled with game pieces. And not even good game pieces. We are talking about Parchesi tiles. Instead of the Monopoly racecare, it’s the wheelbarrow. At least it’s not the thimble
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THE PHILADELPHIA MASONIC TEMPLE
Philadelphia has amazing attractions hidden in plain sight. On the north side of City Hall, on the east side of Broad Street is the Philadelphia Masonic Temple, which has tours open to the public, albeit with somewhat limited hours. Plan ahead and you can catch a glimpse into the secret Freemason society. Several of America’s founding fathers, such as Washington and Franklin, were freemasons so there’s also a connection to the rest of Philadelphia’s historical sites. The Masonic temple has many impressive themed rooms on the interior—the Ionic room, the Egyptian room, the Norman room, and the Corinthian room.
Philadelphia has amazing attractions hidden in plain sight. On the north side of City Hall, on the east side of Broad Street is the Philadelphia Masonic Temple, which has tours open to the public, albeit with somewhat limited hours. Plan ahead and you can catch a glimpse into the secret Freemason society. Several of America’s founding fathers, such as Washington and Franklin, were freemasons so there’s also a connection to the rest of Philadelphia’s historical sites. The Masonic temple has many impressive themed rooms on the interior—the Ionic room, the Egyptian room, the Norman room, and the Corinthian room.
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There’s also stained glass images of the famous freemasons founding fathers and a larger than life Ben Franklin sculpture. I tell anyone who is interested in seeing Philadelphia’s historical sites—Independence Hall, the Liberty Bell, Franklin Court, the Betsy Ross House, etc.—to add the Masonic Temple to the list.
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MCGILLIN'S ALE HOUSE 1310 Drury Street - a hidden alley between Chestnut and Sansom Street.
McGillin's opened in 1860 and could rest on its status as the oldest continuously operating tavern in Philadelphia; it doesn't and ia a great place to have a beer. At some point in their career all Philadelphia professionals find there way here. You arrive at have no idea how you didn't know a place like this existed. Inside is a loud and rowdy bar. If there's not room downstairs you can head upstairs where there is additional seating. McGillin's serves food, however, given this area of the City there are plenty of other dining options in the immediate vicinity.
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JEFFERSON UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL - 833 CHESTNUT STREET
Jefferson University offers a bit of a retreat from the surrounding noise of the city. On the back side of the University is a park with a statue of Samuel Gross, a famous 19th Century surgeon, who is immortalized in Thomas Eakins painting, The Gross Clinic.
Jefferson University offers a bit of a retreat from the surrounding noise of the city. On the back side of the University is a park with a statue of Samuel Gross, a famous 19th Century surgeon, who is immortalized in Thomas Eakins painting, The Gross Clinic.
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NIX FEDERAL BUILDING - 900 MARKET STREET
This building houses a courthouse and a post office. Most of the building is closed to the public, unless you are due in court, however, the eastern side where the post office is located is an excellent example of Art Deco architecture in Philadelphia. There are some great architectural details such as writing on the teller windows and a clock and several carvings on exterior walls.
This building houses a courthouse and a post office. Most of the building is closed to the public, unless you are due in court, however, the eastern side where the post office is located is an excellent example of Art Deco architecture in Philadelphia. There are some great architectural details such as writing on the teller windows and a clock and several carvings on exterior walls.
Exterior wall carving and Art Deco writing on the mailbox.
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Market Street, west of City Hall, contains Philadelphia's business corridor where many major companies, including Comcast are located. Below are a few interior shops of the new Comcast tower.
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The Philadelphia Auto Show is an annual event held in the spring at the Philadelphia Convention Center:
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