JIM HAMILL
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CHARLESTON

south carolina
​I have mixed thoughts on Charleston. I think you need to visit the city during the week. And I think you need to take a deeper dive outside the historical area. It’s not to say that spending a weekend eating and drinking in Charleston’s historical area wouldn’t be a great weekend…because it would be…but it’s to say that if that’s all you did it’d be difficult to get a vibe for what Charleston is really like.

Case in point. The first meal I ate in Charleston was a Gullah rice dish from My Three Sons. Gullah is a Charleston region specific cuisine with roots tracing back to Eastern Africa. Gullah rice had a jambalaya-esq taste but this was all rice, no liquid, and huge chunks of sausage, shrimp, and scallops meshed in. The meal costs $6.99. For dinner that night I ordered blue crab rice from a very good restaurant. Blue crab rice is another low country signature Charleston dish. The meal costs $27.00. I’d take the Gullah rice every meal and that’s before factoring in the price difference. So you need to dine outside the historical center.
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Then there’s towns like Mt. Pleasant and Sullivan’s Island to the north of Charleston. Great places. Taking Coleman Boulevard / 703 out to these neighborhoods I passed no less than ten restaurants that were rocking and had me regretting eating dinner earlier in the night in Charleston’s historical center. I had a meal at FIG – great meal although nowhere near the levels as Philadelphia’s James Beard restaurants and it had a very quiet atmosphere – and another meal at Hall’s Chophouse – phenomenal steak, phenomenal atmosphere, loved everything about the experience – but you can get these meals in most cities. It felt like you were dining with tourists. Sullivan’s Island has a light house, amazing beach front homes, and a duney beach area. I’d move here instantly.
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​To the south is Folly Beach…which is ok…it’s no Sullivan’s Island though.
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So what to do in Charleston. Walk. Walk. Walk. And then drive to a few of the sites early in the morning. I was here for a few days, and working for a few of those days, so I had a nice pattern where I’d walk to some parts of the city, drive to other parts, and for several of the sites I visited twice to see how things looked in the early morning relative to later afternoon/early evening – I’ll say this, the Battery and Rainbow row are awesome anytime of day but in the morning? They are at their best.
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You walk down King Street the main shopping street (although not many restaurants).
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You walk around the College of Charleston Campus.
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You walk over to Colonial Lake Park - grab a coffee at Second Street Coffee on the way.
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You walk around the Joe Riley Waterfront Park.
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You walk down Broad Street - you drink a beer at Blind Tiger.
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You walk your dog through Marion Square and over to Wragg Mall.
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Sure there’s restaurants but mostly you just walk. And that’s all you need to do to enjoy Charleston.

​(Due to the dog, no revisit to Fort Sumter on this trip.)
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Charleston also has a Top 50 global microbrewery, Westbrook Brewing, but I’ve long questioned those rankings and stops at Palmetto Brewing and Revelry Brewing (both with higher Google rankings that I agree with) did nothing to change my mind that for the most part a beer is a beer.

Charleston has several plantations in the surrounding area, most along the Ashley River, and I selected Boone Hall, primarily for it’s oak lined avenue leading the main house. I don’t know who Boone was. I didn’t read much before, there, or after. But it was a fun visit. Fun walking around the site. Interesting to see a wedding set up in the front yard. I imagined the wedding coordinator saying after the service “Now if you walk past the slave quarters and make a right, you’ll see the reception area.”

There’s a nice garden in front to the plantation hall. There’s a horse pen – Annie was much more interested in horses in pens than those pulling carriages. And there’s the canopy of oak trees which never got old.
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  • Lifetime Travels
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    • Africa >
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