The Carretera Austral is a 770 mile stretch of "highway" that runs from Puerto Montt in the north to Villa O'Higgins in the south. It is one of the most remote but beautiful stretches of highways in the world and connects many small towns in Patagonian Chile. Construction started in the 1970s to solidify Chile's claim to the Patagonia region at the same time Argentina was establishing settlements in the El Chalten area. Once you reach Villa O'Higgins you need to either turn around or continue on to El Chalten using a combination of ferries, horse rides, cycling, and/or hiking. The Chilean government has recently been paving the Carretera Austral but if you are going to do the drive yourself you'd want to use a four wheel drive vehicle...although I did see a couple of individuals cycling along the route.
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CERRO CASTILLO - ESTANCIA STAY
I traveled the Carretera Austral as part of a packaged overland tour which made it much easier to travel between towns. The Dragoman Group entered the Carretera Austral at Balmaceda. There was a dramatic and instant change in the Patagonia scenery once we crossed into Chile. More mountains, green trees, rapidly flowing rivers, reflection ponds, etc. - all the things that you imagine of Patagonia. Our first night was spent in an Estancia. The local experience of staying on a working farm was one of the trip highlights.
I traveled the Carretera Austral as part of a packaged overland tour which made it much easier to travel between towns. The Dragoman Group entered the Carretera Austral at Balmaceda. There was a dramatic and instant change in the Patagonia scenery once we crossed into Chile. More mountains, green trees, rapidly flowing rivers, reflection ponds, etc. - all the things that you imagine of Patagonia. Our first night was spent in an Estancia. The local experience of staying on a working farm was one of the trip highlights.
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That night happened to be a day before Thanksgiving so I considered the full meal we were to eat later that night as my Thanksgiving meal. The main course was lamb (two months old) which I watched cook the entire time with Cerro Castillo in the background. The lamb was attached to a t-cross and placed over an open fire. The only "seasoning" that was added was which water which also helped to keep the meat moisturized. The cook made a couple of position adjustments to bring the lamb closer to fire when the cooking was close to being finished. Accompany the Thanksgiving Lamb were potatoes, tomato and onion salad, and a “soft” cake for desert. We drank mate and the Estancia family provided a full explanation on why Chileans quickly drink mate vs. Argentinians who turn it into an all day event - because the Argentinians are lazy.
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The next day we continued the Carretera Austral drive. While a few parts of the road were paved it retrained a rudimentary feel. The small towns we passed by were reminiscent of Bucks County farmland. A portion of the land near winding rivers had been cleared for lambs and cows. The river cuts a valley through the mountains with trees growing off the steep mountain sides. The roads had such crazy curves that you need to honk as you went around a bend to notify any potential oncoming traffic. That night we camped at Queulat National Park.
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The final day driving the Carretera Austral involved a bit more construction and we needed to stop at some points. We spent the night in Futalefu but went white water rafting before settling in for the night. White water rafting felt like being on a continuous roller coaster and amusement park ride. The river guide did a good job explaining the route into the rapids and I made sure to keep my head up to watch all the excitement. Passing through the rapids felt like ocean waves crashing into you. The river route we took involved mostly Class 4s, some 3s, one 5 set of rapids.
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For additional Carretera Austral see FLICKR ALBUM.