Budapest...the Paris of the East. I started my year long travels in Buenos Aires, the Paris of South America and now twenty months later I'm ending the trip in another city city that draws a comparison to France's City of Lights. Picturing all three cities together I actually am starting to understand the comparison. Each of these cities, while uniquely distinct, share a similar visual characteristic - they benefited from a late 1800's to early 1900's construction boom. These cities are the last three architecture boom cities in which mansions were built next to opera house across from parks and connected via wide boulevards - back when peasants worked the field and aristocracy money flowed through the city streets. Construction paid attention to the ornate and no expenses were spared in creating buildings that were visual masterpieces. The scope of the architecture boom in these cities meant the new construction was not confined to a few blocks but instead spread city wide making these among the best cities in the world to get lost.
I've listed Budapest's historical sites further below - the sites that make Budapest "great" and capture the Parisian mystique - however, it's Budapest's distinct attractions that that separate the city from the other "Parises" of the world. These sites, listed directly below, are collectively the 4 B's: Baths, Bars (Ruin Pubs), Bistros (admittedly that is pretty Parisian yet still a surprise in Budapest), and Butchers.
I utilized the website We Love Budapest to find the best places in the city.
I utilized the website We Love Budapest to find the best places in the city.
BATHS
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The Romans marched far and wide in their search for thermal baths. On the Buda side of the city they found several warm springs where they could recover from long treks and battles. Today the baths have a more resort and party feel although the classical architecture still recalls glory days from Budapest's past.
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BARS - RUIN PUBS
What to do with all the old mansions abandoned after World War Two and during Russia's fifty year or so occupation? Turn them into bars of course. In 2002 Szimpla Kert became the first "Ruin Pub" that converted old mansions and courtyards into funky and cool drinking establishments. Over time other entrepreneurs followed suit and Budapest eventually earned a reputation as one of the best partying cities in the world.
The Ruin Pubs are concentrated in Budapest's 7th District and on any visit its convenient to stay within walking distance of this lively and historical neighborhood - although if you are looking for quiet you may want to be on one of the outer fringe streets (a major cross street intersection is at Kiraly and Kazinczy streets). Every other building in this area is either a Ruin Pub or an excellent restaurant. You could join a pub crawl to take you to the most renowned pubs or you could just as easily walk through the neighborhood and pop into any place with a crowd. It's just as easy to find a good place to eat - every restaurant is full making a good meal as close to a certainty as any city I've visited.
Adding to the Ruin Pub enjoyment are the low prices - a pint of beer costs less than $3 USD so it's easy to walk around and try beers at a bunch of places before settling on your favorite. The drawback to the party atmosphere and low prices is that it tends to attract a lot of UK bachelor and bachelorette parties - Friday and Saturday nights tend to be a little out of control compared to the simply crowded earlier days of the week.
Ruin Pubs List and Brief Description of Popular Bars
CLICK OR TAP IMAGES TO ENLARGE
What to do with all the old mansions abandoned after World War Two and during Russia's fifty year or so occupation? Turn them into bars of course. In 2002 Szimpla Kert became the first "Ruin Pub" that converted old mansions and courtyards into funky and cool drinking establishments. Over time other entrepreneurs followed suit and Budapest eventually earned a reputation as one of the best partying cities in the world.
The Ruin Pubs are concentrated in Budapest's 7th District and on any visit its convenient to stay within walking distance of this lively and historical neighborhood - although if you are looking for quiet you may want to be on one of the outer fringe streets (a major cross street intersection is at Kiraly and Kazinczy streets). Every other building in this area is either a Ruin Pub or an excellent restaurant. You could join a pub crawl to take you to the most renowned pubs or you could just as easily walk through the neighborhood and pop into any place with a crowd. It's just as easy to find a good place to eat - every restaurant is full making a good meal as close to a certainty as any city I've visited.
Adding to the Ruin Pub enjoyment are the low prices - a pint of beer costs less than $3 USD so it's easy to walk around and try beers at a bunch of places before settling on your favorite. The drawback to the party atmosphere and low prices is that it tends to attract a lot of UK bachelor and bachelorette parties - Friday and Saturday nights tend to be a little out of control compared to the simply crowded earlier days of the week.
Ruin Pubs List and Brief Description of Popular Bars
CLICK OR TAP IMAGES TO ENLARGE
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BISTROS
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Bistros were the great surprise and revelation of Budapest. I expected Hungary to have a shallow (in terms of items offered) and heavy (in terms of types offered) menu. I was correct, however, I never expected to be dining in such a chill environment.
Bistro's have the outdoor seating seen elsewhere in Europe just at one level of flare above other cities. The bottle and preserved food lined shelves, full length wall mirrors, and even the indifferent and slow staff are reminiscent of Paris. |
The bistros serve all the Hungarian classics from "Lesco" to goulash to sausages, however, the food seems more modern and fresher in the bistro environment than my stodgy expectations. There was also a long list of bistros serving western style (and Hungarian) breakfasts meaning you could eat three bistro meals a day.
We Love Budapest - Best Bistros
We Love Budapest - Best Bistros
BUTCHERS
The common theme of the Ruin Pubs and Bistros is a city modernizing itself yet retaining its heritage - the city's butchers continue that theme. No longer content with simply cutting beef and potentially losing business to supermarkets and convenience stores, Budapest's butchers have started serving food. Belvarosi Disznotoros is one of the easier butcher turned restaurants to find, located on Kiraly St. right off Deak Ferenc Square. There are also several restaurants that are notable because the meat they serve comes directly from well known and established butchers.
So that's the Budapest itinerary - Butcher for lunch, Baths in the afternoon, Bistro for dinner, and Bar (Ruin Pub) at night.
The common theme of the Ruin Pubs and Bistros is a city modernizing itself yet retaining its heritage - the city's butchers continue that theme. No longer content with simply cutting beef and potentially losing business to supermarkets and convenience stores, Budapest's butchers have started serving food. Belvarosi Disznotoros is one of the easier butcher turned restaurants to find, located on Kiraly St. right off Deak Ferenc Square. There are also several restaurants that are notable because the meat they serve comes directly from well known and established butchers.
So that's the Budapest itinerary - Butcher for lunch, Baths in the afternoon, Bistro for dinner, and Bar (Ruin Pub) at night.
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HISTORICAL BUDAPEST
PARLIAMENT
Budapest's most impressive (and the one I took the most photographs of) is its parliament building. From any angle - up close or across the river; in the afternoon sun or evening lights - the building always looks good.
Budapest's most impressive (and the one I took the most photographs of) is its parliament building. From any angle - up close or across the river; in the afternoon sun or evening lights - the building always looks good.
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BUDA OLD TOWN AND CHAIN BRIDGE
The Chain Bridge is one of many bridges that span the Danube and connects hilly Buda on the West Bank with the flatter Pest on the east bank. It is worth crossing the Chain Bridge at least once to glimpse the large lions "guarding" the route between Buda and Pest. Buda Castle rises above the city in the west. It's part of a broader old town complex that also includes the Fisherman's Bastion and St. Matthias Church. If the uphill walk is a bit of a struggle there is a funicular near the Chain Bridge that leads up to Buda Castle. The number 16 bus also starts a route at Deak Ferenc Square then heads across the Danube to Buda's major sites. Budapest is a popular starting point for Danube river cruises. Tour groups tend to arrive in Old Buda around mid-morning. Tickets are required to enter the sites and it's worth considering a Budapest Visitor Card to defray the cost at these sites, museums, and other sites, including the city baths. Dining in this area is limited to a few, tourist oriented restaurants. For a better meal head across the Danube...just be sure to continue beyond Vaci Utca, another tourist facing part of the city. |
ST. MATTHIAS CHURCH
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BUDA CASTLE
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FISHERMEN'S BASTION
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CHAIN BRIDGE
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HEROES' SQUARE
In City Park in the north part of the city center is Heroes Square - a tribute to Hungarians heroes from the past. Budapest is dotted with statutes all over the city and this is perhaps the greatest collection in a single space. From here it's a short walk to Szechenyi Bath and Vajdahunyad Castle, although I walked right past the Castle to Kertum, a beer garden with a Ruin Pub vibe in the center of the park.
In City Park in the north part of the city center is Heroes Square - a tribute to Hungarians heroes from the past. Budapest is dotted with statutes all over the city and this is perhaps the greatest collection in a single space. From here it's a short walk to Szechenyi Bath and Vajdahunyad Castle, although I walked right past the Castle to Kertum, a beer garden with a Ruin Pub vibe in the center of the park.
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JEWISH BUDAPEST
Walks through Budapest's 7th District pass a number of historical Jewish sites including Dohany Street Synagogue, a.k.a. the "Great Synagogue", because it's the largest in Europe - it seats over three thousand people. There's also several kosher delis and restaurants offering up the Jewish version of Hungarian dishes. Tours are available focusing on just this part of the city with a Jewish theme, however, its fairly easy to find the sites and restaurants on your own. Just like with the Ruin Pubs, Kazinczy Street has a collection of Jewish sites. |
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RED BUDAPEST
Budapest's darkest days were from the 1940s through the 1980s, first with Nazi occupation, who were then replaced with the equally lethal and authoritarian Russians. Not much visibly remains from this era but the House of Terrror on Andrassy Street, Budapest's high end shopping street, retains the history and lessons from a local perspective. Videos of Hungarians tell the horrors of Nazi and Russian occupation in the building that formerly served as Secret Police headquarters. The Russian propaganda statues have all been removed and assembled in Memento Park about an hour trolley and bus ride south of the city center. It only takes about thirty minutes to walk through the "park" and check out the equal parts bad ass and creepy statues. Across from the park's entrance is a replica statue of Stalin's Boots which was the statue toppled over during the city's unsuccessful revolt in 1956.
Budapest's darkest days were from the 1940s through the 1980s, first with Nazi occupation, who were then replaced with the equally lethal and authoritarian Russians. Not much visibly remains from this era but the House of Terrror on Andrassy Street, Budapest's high end shopping street, retains the history and lessons from a local perspective. Videos of Hungarians tell the horrors of Nazi and Russian occupation in the building that formerly served as Secret Police headquarters. The Russian propaganda statues have all been removed and assembled in Memento Park about an hour trolley and bus ride south of the city center. It only takes about thirty minutes to walk through the "park" and check out the equal parts bad ass and creepy statues. Across from the park's entrance is a replica statue of Stalin's Boots which was the statue toppled over during the city's unsuccessful revolt in 1956.
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CLASSIC CAFES AND ARCHITECTURE
The streets between the Four B's and all the other historical sites are lined with pedestrian walkways, shopping area, architectural wonders, and cafes. Budapest features several turn of the century cafes who's grandeur helps to justify the slightly higher prices. The most over the top and ornate of these old school cafes is the New York Cafe.
If you are looking for a coffee shop without all the "pomp" Budapest has seen an influx of modern and minimalist establishments starting with My Little Melbourne and including many others such as Tamp and Pull and Kontakt (hidden down an alleyway off Karoly Street. You could skip the coffee scene entirely and just opt to drink a beer in any one of the city's open spaces. Deak Ferenc Square is a popular place to gather, grab a beer, and sit after work.
We Love Budapest - Best Coffee Shops The listing doesn't include New York Cafe (not sure if that's on purpose or not but I'd still check this place out).
The streets between the Four B's and all the other historical sites are lined with pedestrian walkways, shopping area, architectural wonders, and cafes. Budapest features several turn of the century cafes who's grandeur helps to justify the slightly higher prices. The most over the top and ornate of these old school cafes is the New York Cafe.
If you are looking for a coffee shop without all the "pomp" Budapest has seen an influx of modern and minimalist establishments starting with My Little Melbourne and including many others such as Tamp and Pull and Kontakt (hidden down an alleyway off Karoly Street. You could skip the coffee scene entirely and just opt to drink a beer in any one of the city's open spaces. Deak Ferenc Square is a popular place to gather, grab a beer, and sit after work.
We Love Budapest - Best Coffee Shops The listing doesn't include New York Cafe (not sure if that's on purpose or not but I'd still check this place out).
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For additional photos see FLICKR ALBUM.