When I left Hong Kong to return home I knew I'd be leaving behind a culinary wonderland where every meal was an adventure. My search for the best dim sum and char sui pork stretched from Kennedy Town to Yuen Long and across to Tai Po. From hairy crabs in the fall to claypot rice in winter, every season offered a new delicacy. What I enjoyed most, beyond the flavors and discovering new parts of the city, was the dining environment. Hong Kong eateries are lively and raucous places that leave a memorable impression.
No restaurants seem to capture the Hong Kong attitude quite like the city's food stalls at Cooked Food Centres. Originally outdoor street stalls, the government moved the stalls inside for sanitary, safety, and traffic concerns, akin to Singapore's Hawker Centres. Unlike Singapore's Hawker Centres, Hong Kong's Cooked Food Centres have failed to generate the significant buzz that would necessitate their inclusion in a visitor's dining itinerary. Unfortunately this means one of Hong Kong's best dining experiences often goes untouched. During my time in Hong Kong I visited over thirty Cooked Food Centres - leaving satisfied in most cases. Hopefully my list of the top places that provide great meals and an environment to match inspires others to partake in this dining experience on future Hong Kong visits.
No restaurants seem to capture the Hong Kong attitude quite like the city's food stalls at Cooked Food Centres. Originally outdoor street stalls, the government moved the stalls inside for sanitary, safety, and traffic concerns, akin to Singapore's Hawker Centres. Unlike Singapore's Hawker Centres, Hong Kong's Cooked Food Centres have failed to generate the significant buzz that would necessitate their inclusion in a visitor's dining itinerary. Unfortunately this means one of Hong Kong's best dining experiences often goes untouched. During my time in Hong Kong I visited over thirty Cooked Food Centres - leaving satisfied in most cases. Hopefully my list of the top places that provide great meals and an environment to match inspires others to partake in this dining experience on future Hong Kong visits.
MUI WO - 100 METERS FROM MUI WO PIER, MUI WO
For my last meal in Hong Kong I knew where I was going weeks in advance - Wah Kee Seafood at the Mui Wo Cooked Food Centre. I realize Typhoon Shelter Crab may be the more signature Hong Kong seafood dish, however, Wah Kee's Pepper Crabs are a dining revelation. Maybe it's the hike over from Discovery Bay or drinking a pre-meal Tsingtao on the beach but I always look forward to Mui Wo and the crabs always meet my expectations.
After the meal, whether you've timed the return ferry poorly or not, there's a few low key bars near the pier - China Bear is a good place to cap off the crab feast. If Mui Wo is a bit too far, Ap Lei Chau Cooked Food Centre on the south side of Hong Kong island offers a similar menu and is arguably just as good.
For my last meal in Hong Kong I knew where I was going weeks in advance - Wah Kee Seafood at the Mui Wo Cooked Food Centre. I realize Typhoon Shelter Crab may be the more signature Hong Kong seafood dish, however, Wah Kee's Pepper Crabs are a dining revelation. Maybe it's the hike over from Discovery Bay or drinking a pre-meal Tsingtao on the beach but I always look forward to Mui Wo and the crabs always meet my expectations.
After the meal, whether you've timed the return ferry poorly or not, there's a few low key bars near the pier - China Bear is a good place to cap off the crab feast. If Mui Wo is a bit too far, Ap Lei Chau Cooked Food Centre on the south side of Hong Kong island offers a similar menu and is arguably just as good.
WAH KEE'S PEPPER CRABS - IS IT TOO LATE TO MOVE BACK TO HONG KONG?
BOWRINGTON ROAD - 21 BOWRINGTON ROAD, CAUSEWAY BAY
The quintessential Cooked Food Centre dining experience - at night the dining hall, in what could easily be mistaken for a parking garage, fills up quickly and noise levels make it a challenge to have a conversation. The pink table clothed stall at Bowrington provides all the Chinese classics, although it's worth noting the English menu is half the size as its Cantonese counterpart. The food coming out of the kitchen may not be as consistent as Sheung Wan and Queens Road Cooked Food Centres, however, Bowrington was five minutes from where I lived and became my sentimental, "go-to" favorite. I will never forget the first time I stumbled in here and had the dishes, a plastic bin, and a pitcher of tea placed in front of me, and wondered "what am I suppose to do with this?" I've come a long way since then.
The quintessential Cooked Food Centre dining experience - at night the dining hall, in what could easily be mistaken for a parking garage, fills up quickly and noise levels make it a challenge to have a conversation. The pink table clothed stall at Bowrington provides all the Chinese classics, although it's worth noting the English menu is half the size as its Cantonese counterpart. The food coming out of the kitchen may not be as consistent as Sheung Wan and Queens Road Cooked Food Centres, however, Bowrington was five minutes from where I lived and became my sentimental, "go-to" favorite. I will never forget the first time I stumbled in here and had the dishes, a plastic bin, and a pitcher of tea placed in front of me, and wondered "what am I suppose to do with this?" I've come a long way since then.
EASY TO MISS BARRINGTON ROAD: PARKING GARAGE-ESQ ON THE OUTSIDE - DELICIOUS FOOD AND PARTY ON THE INSIDE
JAVA ROAD - 99 JAVA ROAD, NORTH POINT
I debated including Java Road's Tung Po on the list because the food is so good the restaurant blurs the lines of the Cooked Food Centre concept. Outside of Wah Kee's pepper crab, Tung Po has the best food of any stall you will find yet it retains the grit and lively environment making its inclusion a must on any "Best of" Cooked Food Centres list. Signature dishes include squid ink pasta, wind sand chicken, and other items not likely to be found at other stalls. The prices skew a little higher - a meal may be twice the price at other Centres although the supreme quality still makes this place a tremendous value compared to other high end restaurants on Hong Kong island. Wong Nai Chung, on the backside of Happy Valley Race Course, also offers a somewhat "classy" Cooked Food Centre dining experience.
I debated including Java Road's Tung Po on the list because the food is so good the restaurant blurs the lines of the Cooked Food Centre concept. Outside of Wah Kee's pepper crab, Tung Po has the best food of any stall you will find yet it retains the grit and lively environment making its inclusion a must on any "Best of" Cooked Food Centres list. Signature dishes include squid ink pasta, wind sand chicken, and other items not likely to be found at other stalls. The prices skew a little higher - a meal may be twice the price at other Centres although the supreme quality still makes this place a tremendous value compared to other high end restaurants on Hong Kong island. Wong Nai Chung, on the backside of Happy Valley Race Course, also offers a somewhat "classy" Cooked Food Centre dining experience.
SQUID INK PASTA AND A LITTLE BOWL OF BEER - MUST BE TUNG PO
TAI PO HUI - 8 HEUNG SZE WUI STREET, TAI PO
Once you head off Hong Kong island, the Cooked Food Centres' value proposition starts to drop. There are Kowloon and New Territories restaurants within the vicinity of Cooked Food Centres that are better, equally priced, and just as exciting of a dining environment (see the final two recommendations on the list). The exception is Tai Po Hui...with a caveat that this Cooked Food Centre is best visited for a weekend lunch. During this time so many food stalls are open the dining hall resembles a mall food court. The best thing to do is find a table with your dining companions then take turns selecting items from the busiest stalls with the longest lines.
If you have a craving for Thai food check out Kowloon City Cooked Food Centre. Pei Ho Cooked Food Centre in Sham Shui Po may have the rowdiest (and smokiest) environment and be in the liveliest neighborhood although the food doesn't live up to the atmosphere.
Once you head off Hong Kong island, the Cooked Food Centres' value proposition starts to drop. There are Kowloon and New Territories restaurants within the vicinity of Cooked Food Centres that are better, equally priced, and just as exciting of a dining environment (see the final two recommendations on the list). The exception is Tai Po Hui...with a caveat that this Cooked Food Centre is best visited for a weekend lunch. During this time so many food stalls are open the dining hall resembles a mall food court. The best thing to do is find a table with your dining companions then take turns selecting items from the busiest stalls with the longest lines.
If you have a craving for Thai food check out Kowloon City Cooked Food Centre. Pei Ho Cooked Food Centre in Sham Shui Po may have the rowdiest (and smokiest) environment and be in the liveliest neighborhood although the food doesn't live up to the atmosphere.
TAI PO - ROCKING ON A SATURDAY AFTERNOON
CHAN KUN KEE - 3-5 WO CHE ESTATE, SHA TIN
Technically not a cooked food, however, no one would blame you if you mistook it for one. This restaurant, part of a larger complex buried in the middle of a Sha Tin public housing estate specializes in seafood. Google maps makes it a bit easier to find and once you're close the loud noise of diners drinking, eating, and carrying on can guide you the rest of the way. The beauty of Cooked Food Centres is they are often in slightly out of the way locations that provide a glimpse of Hong Kong local life visitors may not otherwise see. Nowhere is that more true than at Chan Kun Kee.
Technically not a cooked food, however, no one would blame you if you mistook it for one. This restaurant, part of a larger complex buried in the middle of a Sha Tin public housing estate specializes in seafood. Google maps makes it a bit easier to find and once you're close the loud noise of diners drinking, eating, and carrying on can guide you the rest of the way. The beauty of Cooked Food Centres is they are often in slightly out of the way locations that provide a glimpse of Hong Kong local life visitors may not otherwise see. Nowhere is that more true than at Chan Kun Kee.
CHAN KUN KEE - OUTDOOR DINING UNDER PUBLIC HOUSINGS' BRIGHT LIGHTS
TAI CHUNG WAH - 539 FOK WING STREET, CHEUNG SHA WAN
Not a cooked food centre although it is a Dai Pai Dong, Hong Kong's traditional outdoor dining stalls, of which Cooked Food Centres could be considered a sub-category. You'd have no way of knowing given the small area you may be sitting but this restaurant seats nearly four hundred diners. Purchasing alcohol requires you to walk to a beer stall in a corner of the building and as you walk around the block and see other diners and cooking areas you begin to get an understanding of the scale of Tai Chung Wah's operations. The volume of menu items can be a bit overwhelming so it's best to come as a group - be sure to order the pork knuckle although all the dishes are pretty good.
Not a cooked food centre although it is a Dai Pai Dong, Hong Kong's traditional outdoor dining stalls, of which Cooked Food Centres could be considered a sub-category. You'd have no way of knowing given the small area you may be sitting but this restaurant seats nearly four hundred diners. Purchasing alcohol requires you to walk to a beer stall in a corner of the building and as you walk around the block and see other diners and cooking areas you begin to get an understanding of the scale of Tai Chung Wah's operations. The volume of menu items can be a bit overwhelming so it's best to come as a group - be sure to order the pork knuckle although all the dishes are pretty good.
TAI CHUNG WAH - BETTER YET, COME ALONE AND HAVE THE PORK KNUCKLE ALL TO YOURSELF
This list features my recommendations and is hardly a complete representation of the environments and cuisine available. Many Cooked Food Centres may have a single stall with a single spectacular dish that's worth trying - such as the pork cutlet sandwich at the Mong Kok Cood Food Centre. I found Open Rice's website and app to provide great reviews and rankings and be the best predictor of finding a good meal. A feature on the app allows a filtered search by Dai Pai Dong and neighborhood which will help to narrow the choices. Open Rice reviews also include photos of recommended dishes making it possible to "show" your order instead of searching the menu. Happy local dining in Hong Kong.
Complete official listing of Cooked Food Centres.
Complete official listing of Cooked Food Centres.