JIM HAMILL
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BARES  NOTABLES

RETURN TO buenos aires
Visitors to Buenos Aires flock to Cafe Tortoni.  It's the city's oldest cafe and nightly tango performances that many consider a must do attraction.  Yet, it's hard to understand the allure of this single place, with lines out there door, given that it's only one of over seventy similar cafes, restaurants, and bars throughout the city with a Bar Notables distinction.  Bar Notables are Buenos Aires' attempt to identify and preserve historical establishments.  While none are as old as Cafe Tortoni many have a similar historical atmosphere that transports diners back to the Golden Age of tango when Carlos Gardel hits played at bars and clubs.  

Here are five worth consideration of a visit:

CLICK OR TAP PHOTOS TO ENLARGE
BAR EL FEDERAL
Carlos Calvo 600, San Telmo
The second oldest Bar Notable in Buenos Aires, Bar El Federal has been at the intersection of Carlos Calvo and Peru streets since 1858, a few months after Cafe Tortoni opened.  Dark interiors, rich mahogany - it's the quintessential Bar Notable experience.  The interior is a show of its own so there's no point in rushing through a flan and caramel dessert even if it may not live up to your hopes.
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Bar El Federal Interior
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Coffee and Caramel Flan Close Up
EL HIPOPOTAMO
Brasil 401, San Telmo
Across the corner from Parque Lezama, midway between San Telmo and La Poca on Defensa Street, sits El Hipopotamo.  It has a similar rustic interior as Bar El Federal.  The naturally tendency upon entering the doors is to order a Quilmes, plop down at a table near a window, and watch the world slowly pass while snacking on peanuts.
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El Hipopotamo Exterior
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El Hipopotamo Interior
36 BILLARES
Avenida de Mayo 1265, Monserrat
If you are looking for some entertainment while sipping a cappuccino the ground floor of 36 Billares has you covered with a rotating selection of bands.  As for the name...Billares translates to Billiards.  A stairwell near the entrance leads down to Buenos Aires' oldest Billiards Hall.  The participants look as if they've been playing since the pool hall opened 100 years ago.  There's some stadium seating for your to sit and watch the competition unfold.
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36 Billares Exterior
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36 Billares - Ground Floor
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36 Billares - Lower Level
EL PREFERIDO DE PALERMO
Borges 2108, Palermo
This Bar Notable is more of a deli than a bar or coffee shop.  As you gorge away on one of the restaurant's specialties it's easy to wonder if the bright green and orange color scheme and carefully lined cans of pickled vegetables along the shelves inspired Jorge Luis Borges.  The restaurant certainly feels magical.
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El Preferido de Palermo Interior
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Deli Sandwich
CAFE DE LA ESQUINA
Avenida de Libertador 6196, Belgrano
Bares Notables are not just confined to Buenos Aires' visitor popular neighborhoods.  A great way to explore the city is to pick a Bar Notable in a new area and start walking.  Cafe de la Esquina is a great find in the Belgrano neighborhood.  It has a similar dark and mahogany interior as Bar El Federal in a quieter section of the city.
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Cafe de la Esquina Interior
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Cafe de la Esquina Interior
EL ATENEO DE GRAND SPLENDID
Avenida Santa Fe 1860
I'll make one exception to the Bar Notables list for a truly exceptional place...El Ateneo Grand Splendid may be the greatest book store in the world.  It's a converted opera house that's retained the original infrastructure and painted ceilings.  The stage is now a coffeeshop providing an excellent means to sit and enjoy the re-purposed operations.
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El Ateneo's Amazing Interior
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And It's Equally Amazing Ceiling
  • Lifetime Travels
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    • Africa >
      • Egypt
      • Ethiopia
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        • Taiwan
      • Indian Sub-Continent >
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      • Southeast Asia >
        • Brunei
        • Cambodia
        • Indonesia
        • Laos
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      • Western Europe >
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