INTO THE JUNGLE: BADUY VILLAGE
I made it!
I “survived” a night deep in the Indonesian jungle living among the Baduy. No electricity or other modern conveniences. All I saw from the outside world were fishing poles, solar powered lanterns, and a soccer ball. A group of girls had also been taught how to play hopscotch. The Baduy are an indigenous hill tribe living in the Banten area, less than 100 miles west of Jakarta. Approximately 10,000 tribe members live along the rivers that cut through the valleys of a hilly landscape.
The Baduy villages are in two separate and distinct areas. I spent my time in Baduy Luar - the “outer” villages. These villagers have let some of the outside world into their daily lives - the home I spent the night had a battery powered light, however, that was the only luxury item. When the sun set the entire village went to sleep. Baduy Dalam is the “inner” village and a three hour, five mile hike from Baduy Luar. Villagers in Baduy Dalam continue with a strict adherence to traditional customs. I considered making the trek to Baduy Dalam, however, there's some debate as to whether an outsider like myself would be permitted to gain access. When I reached Baduy Luar I was more than content to explore three small villages in this area without venturing any further.
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I “survived” a night deep in the Indonesian jungle living among the Baduy. No electricity or other modern conveniences. All I saw from the outside world were fishing poles, solar powered lanterns, and a soccer ball. A group of girls had also been taught how to play hopscotch. The Baduy are an indigenous hill tribe living in the Banten area, less than 100 miles west of Jakarta. Approximately 10,000 tribe members live along the rivers that cut through the valleys of a hilly landscape.
The Baduy villages are in two separate and distinct areas. I spent my time in Baduy Luar - the “outer” villages. These villagers have let some of the outside world into their daily lives - the home I spent the night had a battery powered light, however, that was the only luxury item. When the sun set the entire village went to sleep. Baduy Dalam is the “inner” village and a three hour, five mile hike from Baduy Luar. Villagers in Baduy Dalam continue with a strict adherence to traditional customs. I considered making the trek to Baduy Dalam, however, there's some debate as to whether an outsider like myself would be permitted to gain access. When I reached Baduy Luar I was more than content to explore three small villages in this area without venturing any further.
CLICK OR TAP IMAGES TO ENLARGE
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The first village I reached was about a forty-five minute walk from Ciboleger, the nearest town. Even Ciboleger felt like stepping back in time. Indonesians may note the town has become somewhat touristy in the past few years although besides a convenience store and a few other shops I wasn't too inundated with commercialism. A stone pathway runs along the a ridge and cuts through the jungle. Just before the first village there's a steep descent to the homes located along a river. The straw thatch tops of the homes started to appear between the trees and I knew I had reached someplace special.
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The well laid pathway - the path curved but the lines remained perfectly straight line - lead to a well planned community. Stone stairways rose to homes further up the hill. Wherever I could, I broke from the main path to see the local life beyond - often to the bemusement of the tribe members who must wonder what makes there community such an attraction. I wish I could tell them to preserve their heritage, there's a reason people like me leave the busy and noisy city behind in search of an idyllic paradise. I can't imagine why someone would leave the closeness of this community behind for the chaos of Jakarta. The homes, while small, we're beautiful - bamboo sheafs were weaved into patterns to become walls.
Each house had a large patio where you could sit outside and relax. The villagers did seem relaxed. I wish I knew more about their dining habits because it didn't seem they have the space for crops and per their beliefs they don't eat meat, so I wasn't entirely sure what consisted of the daily routine. Women sat on the porch weaving via a unique loom. I heard the “crack, crack, crack” of the weaving before I saw the loom. The woman would then re-arrange the wooden instruments, then crack, crack, crack. It was a pattern of three cracks followed by loom re-arrangement.
Each house had a large patio where you could sit outside and relax. The villagers did seem relaxed. I wish I knew more about their dining habits because it didn't seem they have the space for crops and per their beliefs they don't eat meat, so I wasn't entirely sure what consisted of the daily routine. Women sat on the porch weaving via a unique loom. I heard the “crack, crack, crack” of the weaving before I saw the loom. The woman would then re-arrange the wooden instruments, then crack, crack, crack. It was a pattern of three cracks followed by loom re-arrangement.
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I made a seat out of the stone wall and watched four young girls grab a kitten (another outside introduction to the village) by one of its ears, then place the kitten on the side of the house to see if the kitten could use its claws to,cling without falling. Inevitably the kitten harmlessly dropped every time.
I continued to the next and slightly larger village. An upturn at this village revealed a second style of smaller, single room homes. The similarities between the smaller and larger homes were that each support beam rested on a stone instead of being driven into the ground. They shared a similar bamboo sheaf wall and thatched roof design.
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From here it was another short walk along the river to a third village. As I approached the village a group of young children were washing and playing in the river. At the village entrance a older group of children were playing hacky sack with a soccer ball. There was a small clearing although not enough for even a small soccer field. This was the largest of the three villages and where I'd eventually spend the night.
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On the far side of this village two trees that pointed inward, across the river, supported a suspension style bridge. At first I thought the bridge was grounded below, however, once I started walking the bridge started to sway and I noticed it was secured via ties to the branches above. On the opposite side of the river was a cluster of smaller homes and the pathway that continued to Baduy Dalam. Astounded with the beauty and activity of the local life in the three villages I opted to return to the villages instead of continuing to Baduy Dalam.
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Back at the large village I talked with a few other “outsiders” who were hiking to Baduy Dalam the next day. They were Indonesians and would be leaving at seven in the morning. They weren't sure if Caucasians were allowed to enter Baduy Dalam. The closest I've come to visiting an authentic tribal village was a stop at a Masai village during an African Safari. That experience provided a glimpse into village life and now I had a chance at Baduy Laur to spend the night (I'm not sure, that even given the opportunity, I would have spent the night in one of the cow dung Masai homes).
I walked back through the second to the first village. At this point the cat ear pulling girls had moved onto the more conventional game of hopscotch. The youngest of the four continued to make mischief coming close to toppling a pile of firewood over. This was my afternoon entertainment which came to an abrupt end when a rain storm passed through. Everyone gathered under the porches and I found myself the center of attention. Language barriers limited communication to staring eyes and laughs. I contemplated visiting the village as a day trip, I met some others who did, however, the last hours of daylight when I was alone in the village were the best. Instead of seeing people, I began to see personalities. There were the more boisterous, A-types and the quiet, B-types. People were inquisitive, mischievous, motherly, and comedic. The village had simplified life to the essentials.
There was a slight break in the rain so I decided to head back to the third village where I knew I could find a place to spend the night based upon the discussion with other travelers. Within fifteen minutes of reaching the third village it was pitch black. It was only 6:30. Fortunately the owner of a patio I sat on had space for me an rolled out a bamboo mat across the bamboo floor for a bed. In a surprise he pulled out to fluffy pillows. I had a rice and egg meal with the family and wondered how often their dinners varied from these basics. The rice was basic, however, the eggs had a delicious, quasi sweet, kick to them.
I walked back through the second to the first village. At this point the cat ear pulling girls had moved onto the more conventional game of hopscotch. The youngest of the four continued to make mischief coming close to toppling a pile of firewood over. This was my afternoon entertainment which came to an abrupt end when a rain storm passed through. Everyone gathered under the porches and I found myself the center of attention. Language barriers limited communication to staring eyes and laughs. I contemplated visiting the village as a day trip, I met some others who did, however, the last hours of daylight when I was alone in the village were the best. Instead of seeing people, I began to see personalities. There were the more boisterous, A-types and the quiet, B-types. People were inquisitive, mischievous, motherly, and comedic. The village had simplified life to the essentials.
There was a slight break in the rain so I decided to head back to the third village where I knew I could find a place to spend the night based upon the discussion with other travelers. Within fifteen minutes of reaching the third village it was pitch black. It was only 6:30. Fortunately the owner of a patio I sat on had space for me an rolled out a bamboo mat across the bamboo floor for a bed. In a surprise he pulled out to fluffy pillows. I had a rice and egg meal with the family and wondered how often their dinners varied from these basics. The rice was basic, however, the eggs had a delicious, quasi sweet, kick to them.
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It was seven. It was pitch black. Thankfully I was exhausted. It wasn't long before I was asleep. I woke up a couple of times during the night but was always able to fall back asleep until the sun rose and the roosters started to crow. The homes do a fantastic job of blocking out the light and when I went outside to use the bathroom I was surprised how sunny it already was at six. Village life had started up again with people washing and hanging clothes to take full advantage of the day.
I felt refreshed and took another pass around the village. I wasn't entirely sure of the minibus schedule from Ciboleger to Rangkasbitung so started the trek back. I passed through the villages and the girls were back out playing hopscotch. They and the other villages did not seem to be to willing to pose for photographs so I did my best to try and not make them feel uncomfortable when I took a few shots on my way out. It was a steep hike out of the villages. Before long I was back in Ciboleger. There was a thirty minute wait and I was on my way to Rangkasbitung. I was able to catch an expression train and was in Jakarta by one. I stepped out of the train station and wondered why anyone would give up a life in the Baduy villages for Jakarta. I didn't miss electricity or contact with the outside world and hoped Baduy villages would feel the same way over the long term.
I felt refreshed and took another pass around the village. I wasn't entirely sure of the minibus schedule from Ciboleger to Rangkasbitung so started the trek back. I passed through the villages and the girls were back out playing hopscotch. They and the other villages did not seem to be to willing to pose for photographs so I did my best to try and not make them feel uncomfortable when I took a few shots on my way out. It was a steep hike out of the villages. Before long I was back in Ciboleger. There was a thirty minute wait and I was on my way to Rangkasbitung. I was able to catch an expression train and was in Jakarta by one. I stepped out of the train station and wondered why anyone would give up a life in the Baduy villages for Jakarta. I didn't miss electricity or contact with the outside world and hoped Baduy villages would feel the same way over the long term.
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For additional Baduy Village photos see FLICKR ALBUM.
HOW TO REACH BADUY VILLAGE
I used this blog entry at www.discoveryourindonesia.com as my guide. I followed the information in this guide and have added my own notes. The first step involves taking a train from the Tanah Abang Station (about a five minute taxi ride from Plaza Indonesia) to Rangkasbitung. Use Google search to identify a train that fits your schedule. I caught an 8 am train and was able to purchase a ticket on arrival instead of advance. If you try purchasing a ticket in advance from an agent, they may inform you no trains are available or the trains leave at unusual times (it says this online too), however, trains seemed to leave every two hours alternating between a local (15,000 IDR) and an express (30,000 IDR). Not only was the express about an hour quicker it was also a nicer train with more passenger room.
Once in Rangkasbitung you can hop in one of the red vans or catch a motorcycle to Aweh Terminal. At Aweh Terminal it's easy to identify the bus heading to Ciboleger. It is possible to take a bus from near Rangkasbitung Train Station. On the opposite side of the tracks from the ticket office is an openning that leads to a bus "station". The return bust to Ciboleger will drop you off here but it is nearly impossible to find for a first time visitor. It looks like you'll be walking into a slum.
Once in Rangkasbitung you can hop in one of the red vans or catch a motorcycle to Aweh Terminal. At Aweh Terminal it's easy to identify the bus heading to Ciboleger. It is possible to take a bus from near Rangkasbitung Train Station. On the opposite side of the tracks from the ticket office is an openning that leads to a bus "station". The return bust to Ciboleger will drop you off here but it is nearly impossible to find for a first time visitor. It looks like you'll be walking into a slum.
From Aweh Terminal its a bumpy two hour ride to Ciboleger. Once you exit the minibus at Ciboleger someone will likely approach you offering guide services. There's no need to pay a guide. The trail is easy to find and follow. From the bus drop off walk toward the main section of town up the slight incline.
At the far end of Ciboleger - less than two hundred meters from the bus drop off - is an archway stating you're about to enter Baduy.
After this archway the path will immediately pass through a village area with the homestyles you'll find in Baduy. The path is relatively easy to follow. The only turnpoint occurs when a wide path contains flat and the stone path goes up. Take the stone path up - the path on the left below.
The only other possible tricky point is about halfway through the walk there's a cross path. In this case to do not take the upward turnoff but continue straight - the path on the right below.
If there are any issues, if you wait five minutes someone will come walking along who can point you in the right direction. The day I visited there was a constant flow of day trippers walking out so it was easy to just walk from where they came. The final part of the trail is a steep descent to a river valley - that's when you know you are close.