Philadelphia’s Ben Franklin Parkway / Museum District was modeled after Paris’s Champs de Elysees with the City Hall as one bookend and the Philadelphia Museum of Art as the other. The Philadelphia Museum of Art ain’t exactly the Louvre, and the Parkway ain’t exactly the Champs de Elysees, but they are still impressive in their own right, and one of Philadelphia’s great areas. This area hosts a series of annual events, such as Fourth of July celebrations and the Made in America festival, as well as major one-off events like the NFL Draft or the Papal Visit. Thus, living here comes with the positives and negatives of being near major events.
There is something major missing from this area that becomes readily apparent as you walk the Parkway end to end. There’re no restaurants. There’re no bars. There’s nowhere to sit and watch the world go by. As touristy as the Champs de Elysees may be, as much as the go local movement may want to avoid this major avenue, I’ll say this about the Champs, it’s a great place to have a cappuccino. It’s a great place to sit and people watch. The Parkway area desperately needs more restaurants, bars, and cafes. Right now, the top place to grab a meal or a coffee or a beer is the Whole Foods. Philadelphia needs to complete the Champs de Elysees vision and had a few dining options.
There is something major missing from this area that becomes readily apparent as you walk the Parkway end to end. There’re no restaurants. There’re no bars. There’s nowhere to sit and watch the world go by. As touristy as the Champs de Elysees may be, as much as the go local movement may want to avoid this major avenue, I’ll say this about the Champs, it’s a great place to have a cappuccino. It’s a great place to sit and people watch. The Parkway area desperately needs more restaurants, bars, and cafes. Right now, the top place to grab a meal or a coffee or a beer is the Whole Foods. Philadelphia needs to complete the Champs de Elysees vision and had a few dining options.
PHILADELPHIA MUSEUM OF ART
The Philadelphia Museum of Art is probably most famous for, ok who am I kidding with the probably…the Philadelphia Museum of Art is most famous for its stairs that Rocky ran up while training to fight Apollo Creed. [Major side note—the running up the stairs scene is also a major filming achievement because it’s one of the first times a camera moved with an actor (vs. a steady shot)]. The Museum has a strong collection of impressionist art and local art from the likes of Thomas Eakins. The Museum also does a respectable job of bringing through high quality exhibitions twice a year.
The Philadelphia Museum of Art is probably most famous for, ok who am I kidding with the probably…the Philadelphia Museum of Art is most famous for its stairs that Rocky ran up while training to fight Apollo Creed. [Major side note—the running up the stairs scene is also a major filming achievement because it’s one of the first times a camera moved with an actor (vs. a steady shot)]. The Museum has a strong collection of impressionist art and local art from the likes of Thomas Eakins. The Museum also does a respectable job of bringing through high quality exhibitions twice a year.
RODIN MUSEUM
The Rodin Museum and Barnes Museum operate separately but compliment the Philadelphia Museum of Art. The highlight of the Rodin Museum is one of The Thinker sculptures that sits in an open courtyard in front of the museum. Inside the museum are several other sculptures from Auguste Rodin. Like the Parkway and the Philadelphia Museum of Art, the Rodin Museum does not quite compare with its Parisian counterpart. The Barnes Museum is a recent addition to the Philadelphia Parkway / Museum district and one that came with a bit of controversy. The original Barnes was located on Philadelphia’s Main Line in the suburbs and in Barnes’ will was a stipulation that his collection never be moved. Well, nobody came to visit the museum on the Main Line, despite the fact that the collection has the most volume of impressionist paintings assembled. Barnes was one of the first individuals to appreciate the work of impressionists and went on a binge acquiring the artwork of Renoir and others before they became famous. A compromise was reached on relocating the art collection from the suburbs to Philadelphia—the pieces of art would continue to be presented in a home-like setting. The exterior of the Barnes is a brutal, uninviting block of a building—good luck finding the entrance on the back side—however, the interior feels like you’ve stepped into a mansion from the 1800s. The paintings hang on the wall like…paintings hanging on the wall of a personal residence. Timed tickets are required and it’s recommended to purchase in advance.
The Rodin Museum and Barnes Museum operate separately but compliment the Philadelphia Museum of Art. The highlight of the Rodin Museum is one of The Thinker sculptures that sits in an open courtyard in front of the museum. Inside the museum are several other sculptures from Auguste Rodin. Like the Parkway and the Philadelphia Museum of Art, the Rodin Museum does not quite compare with its Parisian counterpart. The Barnes Museum is a recent addition to the Philadelphia Parkway / Museum district and one that came with a bit of controversy. The original Barnes was located on Philadelphia’s Main Line in the suburbs and in Barnes’ will was a stipulation that his collection never be moved. Well, nobody came to visit the museum on the Main Line, despite the fact that the collection has the most volume of impressionist paintings assembled. Barnes was one of the first individuals to appreciate the work of impressionists and went on a binge acquiring the artwork of Renoir and others before they became famous. A compromise was reached on relocating the art collection from the suburbs to Philadelphia—the pieces of art would continue to be presented in a home-like setting. The exterior of the Barnes is a brutal, uninviting block of a building—good luck finding the entrance on the back side—however, the interior feels like you’ve stepped into a mansion from the 1800s. The paintings hang on the wall like…paintings hanging on the wall of a personal residence. Timed tickets are required and it’s recommended to purchase in advance.
The main branch of the Philadelphia Library is a grand old building. There's not many dining options along the parkway other than the Logan Square Cafe.
ACADEMY OF NATURAL SCIENCES
The museums aren’t limited to the art variety. I don’t remember the first time I visited Independence Hall or the Liberty Bell, but I do remember the Academy of Natural Science’s dinosaur hall. I liked the exhibit so much I kept the entry pin as a souvenir.
The museums aren’t limited to the art variety. I don’t remember the first time I visited Independence Hall or the Liberty Bell, but I do remember the Academy of Natural Science’s dinosaur hall. I liked the exhibit so much I kept the entry pin as a souvenir.
Thirty plus years later there’s still excitement entering the museum. Dinosaurs never get old, although I now realize most of these skeletons are casts, not originals. The Franklin Institute and Academy of Natural Sciences combine educational experiences with engaging exhibits. The Franklin Institute’s giant heart is a highlight of a grade school class trip.
FAIRMOUNT WATER WORKS
On the backside of Philadelphia Museum of Art is the Fairmount Water Works. In the 1840s, the Water Works was one of America’s top tourist attractions along with Niagara Falls and the nearby Eastern State Penitentiary. A museum explains the history of the Water Works, however, I think the real reason to visit is to marvel at a vantage point that combines the Schuylkill River, the Water Works, the Philadelphia Museum of Art, and the Philadelphia Skyline into a single view.
On the backside of Philadelphia Museum of Art is the Fairmount Water Works. In the 1840s, the Water Works was one of America’s top tourist attractions along with Niagara Falls and the nearby Eastern State Penitentiary. A museum explains the history of the Water Works, however, I think the real reason to visit is to marvel at a vantage point that combines the Schuylkill River, the Water Works, the Philadelphia Museum of Art, and the Philadelphia Skyline into a single view.
BOATHOUSE ROW
On the backside of the Fairmount Water Works is Boathouse Row, the backsides of which are decorated in Christmas style lights year round. It’s a welcoming site to Philadelphia when driving along the Schuylkill Expressway. Depending upon the seasons or events the lights may be Philadelphia Eagles green or red, white, and blue for the Fourth of July. Philadelphia is a major rowing destination and these boathouses are home to the area colleges and highschool’s rowing clubs. Boat races are held throughout the year, culminating with the Head of the Schuylkill Regatta, which is one of three major rowing races throughout the year.
On the backside of the Fairmount Water Works is Boathouse Row, the backsides of which are decorated in Christmas style lights year round. It’s a welcoming site to Philadelphia when driving along the Schuylkill Expressway. Depending upon the seasons or events the lights may be Philadelphia Eagles green or red, white, and blue for the Fourth of July. Philadelphia is a major rowing destination and these boathouses are home to the area colleges and highschool’s rowing clubs. Boat races are held throughout the year, culminating with the Head of the Schuylkill Regatta, which is one of three major rowing races throughout the year.
The eastern side of the Schuylkill, the Kelly Drive side, north of Boathouse Row is dotted with public art walk. It’s a bit of a hike to walk this section of the city from Boathouse Row to East Falls, so hop on a bike to make traveling this area a more enjoyable experience.
There are events held on the Parkway throughout the year. This was a low key Chinese Lantern rickshaw event.
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