FENGHUANG
I think that many visitors come to China hoping to catch a glimpse of China before it becomes too modern. You enter the country and hope to step back into the 1600s...that you will be entering a Colonial Williamsburg type environment where people live like they did 300-400 years earlier. And then you are somewhat disappointed when you arrives and only see skyscrapers and malls.
But I kind of think the Chinese feel the same way. The Chinese have modernized in a generation in what took the U.S. multi-generations to achieve and in the same way that Americans feel nostalgic for the past, I think a lot of Chinese do as well. Fortunately, they've kept a few villages relatively intact, free from major modern developments and construction.
Fenghuang is one such town and upon arrival it became immediately clear that Fenghuang, for all its beauty, is that at its core, it is a Chinese tourist town. It is a Colonial Williamsburg on the grandest of scales. The pictures that lure you in, that make you include Fenghuang in itinterary, are this stilt balcony homes along a river. This is the China you imagined.
Click or tap images to enlarge.
But I kind of think the Chinese feel the same way. The Chinese have modernized in a generation in what took the U.S. multi-generations to achieve and in the same way that Americans feel nostalgic for the past, I think a lot of Chinese do as well. Fortunately, they've kept a few villages relatively intact, free from major modern developments and construction.
Fenghuang is one such town and upon arrival it became immediately clear that Fenghuang, for all its beauty, is that at its core, it is a Chinese tourist town. It is a Colonial Williamsburg on the grandest of scales. The pictures that lure you in, that make you include Fenghuang in itinterary, are this stilt balcony homes along a river. This is the China you imagined.
Click or tap images to enlarge.
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The stilt homes are as cool looking in person as they appear in the photos. There's bars and restaurants operating in these spaces, so sure it's lost some authenticity over the years, but what a great place to grab a beer. I joined a small boat ride and caught a glimpse of the stilt homes from the river and up close.
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As I walked along the city wall I saw shopkeepers making candy by hand, blowing glass trinkets, and storefronts designed to represent the historical status of the city - all Colonial Williamsburg type stuff. The were Chinese everywhere enjoying every aspect of the city and pausing to take photos throughout the picturesque location - the touristy angle aside, it was a very good place to take photos to show family and friends when you returned home - there were lots of interesting backdrops such as waterwheels, a wooden foot bridge, a stone foot bridge (for the more adventurous), and you could dress up in traditional clothing / costumes. I walked back and forth across the river using the stepping stone bridge once and then had lunch at one of the restaurants with a view of the stilt houses and cafes.
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As I was walking around the village I heard a loud percussion pop of a drum. Then another percussion pop. I followed the ringing rhythm and the sound grew louder and louder. Then I saw the river and a Dragon Boat racing event was in full swing.
I left early the next morning - which allowed for a nice walk along the quiet streets. With the stores shutdown and many visitors still sleeping I could appreciate that this may be as close to 1600s China as I'd reach during my travels.
I left early the next morning - which allowed for a nice walk along the quiet streets. With the stores shutdown and many visitors still sleeping I could appreciate that this may be as close to 1600s China as I'd reach during my travels.
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For additional Fenghuang photos see FLICKR ALBUM.