Chinese New Year...China's Christmas, Thanksgiving, and New Years (obviously) rolled into a single event. It's the most auspicious time of year - auspicious foods are eaten, auspicious acts performed, and auspicious clothes brought - anything that may bring more good luck in the New Year is embraced. Red (a lucky color) decorations start to appear and music can be heard playing throughout shopping centers, grocery stores, and malls. Chinese New Years falls on the last day, of the last month in the Lunar Calendar. The Year of the Sheep official starts on February 19, 2015.
Chinese New Year is a twelve day holiday with the major celebrations occurring within the first days. There's a lot of "unofficial" activities preceding the holiday that are equally interesting and provide a tremendous amount of insight to the Chinese culture - it seems to be obsessed with luck and good fortune. Officially only the first three days are recognized as a national holiday. These are the days when family reunions are held and everyone enjoys a multicourse feast of auspicious foods then head to flower markets, temples, night parades, and fireworks shows to cap a whirlwind day.
Chinese New Year is a twelve day holiday with the major celebrations occurring within the first days. There's a lot of "unofficial" activities preceding the holiday that are equally interesting and provide a tremendous amount of insight to the Chinese culture - it seems to be obsessed with luck and good fortune. Officially only the first three days are recognized as a national holiday. These are the days when family reunions are held and everyone enjoys a multicourse feast of auspicious foods then head to flower markets, temples, night parades, and fireworks shows to cap a whirlwind day.
THE DAYS OF CHINESE NEW YEARS
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NEW YEAR'S EVE
New Years Eve is a full night celebration, a series of events rather than a singular, celebratory point. Earlier in the evening you dine with family, pay your respects to deceased relatives, then head to Wong Tai San with burning joss sticks in hand. At 10:45, I'm in a pack with worshipers thinking I have an hour wait...fifteen minutes later there's a beating of the drums, a quick Taoist chant, then the flood gates open and its a race to make your New Year's prayers. The closer to New Years, the better your luck in the upcoming year. That's the theme of Chinese New Years, a celebration of luck and good fortune for the upcoming year, in the presence of friends and family. |
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It's now 11:59 on Chinese New Year Eve. You should not be in a bar or at a party...with your eyes glued to the TV, waiting for a ball to drop...preparing to break into a celebration with noise makers and glasses of champagne. You should be in a pack of thousands of others Hong Konger in a slow march to one of the city's Flower Markets. If you want to be a bit more economical with your time you could head to Flower Market Street in Mong Kok which has slightly less crowds and more mobility.
(Click or Tap photos below to enlarge)
(Click or Tap photos below to enlarge)
Half Mile Long Crowds to Flower Market
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More Crowds Inside the Flower Market
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Last Minute Flower Shopping
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It's less than a five minute walk from Flower Market Street to Tong Chio Street, Kowloon's equivalent to Lan Kwai Fong with a local flair absent of the expat and tourist crowds. The bar lined street, quiet an hour before, quickly fills with 20 and 30 somethings
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NEW YEAR'S DAY: NIGHT PARADE
New Year's Day features Hong Kong's Night Parade, another major celebration. The crowds felt a little lighter or at least more dispersed than the New Year's Eve Flower Market events. a The parade route that heads north on Canton Road, crosses over Haiphong Street, then down Nathan Road. I secured a spot on the rail along Haiphong about an hour and a half until the parade would reach this point. Fortunately there were a few small acts that passed through as a prelude. The Cathay Pacific group started the parade - the airline has been the primary sponsor since the first parade in 1996. |
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As the parade unfolded it featured an alternating group of participants between dragon costumes, dancers, and international groups including the Denver Broncos' Cheerleaders. As the dragon's passed everyone in the crowd reached out to touch the mythical beasts - I'm not sure of the significance but it probably has something to do with good luck. The dragon's have more detail than I imagined - the person controlling the head can raise and lower both the mouth and eyelids. The parade is interesting but it's a far cry from major parades in the U.S. (Rose Bowl, NYC Thanksgiving, even Philadelphia's Mummers Parade).
What was unique about the parade was how excited the older Hong Kongers were - many of them giddily reached for balloons and they couldn't resist touching dragons whenever they passed. They were the first ones at the railings and had the most enthusiastic cheers. Most of the screaming in the video is from the old people that were surrounding me.
What was unique about the parade was how excited the older Hong Kongers were - many of them giddily reached for balloons and they couldn't resist touching dragons whenever they passed. They were the first ones at the railings and had the most enthusiastic cheers. Most of the screaming in the video is from the old people that were surrounding me.
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SECOND DAY OF CHINESE NEW YEARS: FIREWORKS
The Chinese invented fireworks. If you spend enough time in China you will eventually here a few go off around midday and scurry thinking a gun fight just broke out only to realize instead that someone opened a restaurant. Therefore it should be no surprise that Hong Kong has a massive, 23-minute fire works show to celebrate the New Years. I found a great location to watch the fireworks with no crowds or obstructions and have Victoria Harbor in the foreground. Bum boats at the Causeway Bay Typhoon Shelter shuttle spectators out to the protective jetty for $20HKD a ride. You'll be on the jetty with under thirty other people and have the best views in the city. |
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CHINESE NEW YEAR'S "AUSPICIOUS" CUSTOMS
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HOME CLEANINGS
Homes are thoroughly cleaned leading up to NewYears with the believe that sweeping dirt away removes bad luck spirits. If you need to repaint a door (obviously in the color red) now is the time to do it. As you walk through villages you can see residents cleaning or replacing home shrines and hanging red wallpaper and other decorations. The cleaning doesn't stop at the house. Laundry and sheet cleaning hits new levels. The lines at the laundromat spike and you may not be able to complete your weekly wash until 3am...and prices rise by $2 USD. The apartment attendants constantly washed the lobby entrance ways - every time I left or entered the apartment it seemed the ground was wet from a recent cleaning. |
Washing Laundry at 3am AND Higher Prices!!!
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COUPLET WRITING AND HANGING
Part of the decorations involved the writing and hanging of Chinese couplets. Throughout the city elders appear at table, stacks of red paper, and paintbrushes to write good luck, safe health, and other wishes for the New Years. You can sit with them and receive assistance in writing your own couplet in Chinese letters. You then take the couplet home, hang it, and you are set for good spirits in the New Year. (Also found out that the Chinese consider Left-Handed to be unlucky...that explains a lot.)
Part of the decorations involved the writing and hanging of Chinese couplets. Throughout the city elders appear at table, stacks of red paper, and paintbrushes to write good luck, safe health, and other wishes for the New Years. You can sit with them and receive assistance in writing your own couplet in Chinese letters. You then take the couplet home, hang it, and you are set for good spirits in the New Year. (Also found out that the Chinese consider Left-Handed to be unlucky...that explains a lot.)
Good Health in The Year of the Sheep
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This Apartment Unit is Very Lucky
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WISHING TREES
In addition to the hanging couplets, there's also the wishing tree couplets. Wishing Trees start to appear In malls and public spaces. Individuals write a wish (presumably about fortune and career advancement) on a red placard then tie it to a tree branch. The most famous Wishing Tree is at Lam Tsuen (near Tai Po). Unfortunately the tree caught on fire and started to collapse when people continue to hang placards. Talk about bad luck. There's a replacement tree...except it's a fake tree.
In addition to the hanging couplets, there's also the wishing tree couplets. Wishing Trees start to appear In malls and public spaces. Individuals write a wish (presumably about fortune and career advancement) on a red placard then tie it to a tree branch. The most famous Wishing Tree is at Lam Tsuen (near Tai Po). Unfortunately the tree caught on fire and started to collapse when people continue to hang placards. Talk about bad luck. There's a replacement tree...except it's a fake tree.
A Once Proud Wishing Tree
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And the New Fake One
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Wishing Tree in IFC Mall
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FLOWER MARKETS
Once the house is cleans the next thing to do is purchase flowers and place them throughout your house. Flower Markets pop up overnight...don't let the floral name full you, these markets are full on, intense holiday shopping spirit and everyone in the city seems energized when they are in attendance. Hong Kong's largest flower market is held on the sport courts at Victoria Park. Attending this event is right up there with the night parade and fireworks in must do New Years events.
Once the house is cleans the next thing to do is purchase flowers and place them throughout your house. Flower Markets pop up overnight...don't let the floral name full you, these markets are full on, intense holiday shopping spirit and everyone in the city seems energized when they are in attendance. Hong Kong's largest flower market is held on the sport courts at Victoria Park. Attending this event is right up there with the night parade and fireworks in must do New Years events.
Victoria Park Flower Market
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Victoria Park Flower Market
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Victoria Park Flower Market
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KUMQUAT TREES
In addition to fragrant flowers most Hong Kongers purchase a Kumquat tree. It's the CNY equivalent to the Christmas poinsettias or Easter lilies, although, again, kumquats obviously have more auspicious powers - the name kumquat litreally translates as Golden Auspicious. These trees appear in apartment lobbies. You will also see larger tangerine trees for sales at florists and flower markets.
In addition to fragrant flowers most Hong Kongers purchase a Kumquat tree. It's the CNY equivalent to the Christmas poinsettias or Easter lilies, although, again, kumquats obviously have more auspicious powers - the name kumquat litreally translates as Golden Auspicious. These trees appear in apartment lobbies. You will also see larger tangerine trees for sales at florists and flower markets.
Kumquat Trees - Typically Placed at Building Entrances
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Kumquat Trees at a Nursery
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CNY DECORATIONS AND PURCHASES
There are a few popup stores but office supply stores serve as the primary selling of CNY decorations. Decorations are mostly the streamer and hanging variety. There's no Santa Claus equivalent so the yearly animal fills the void. Statues, stuffed animals, and all sorts of sheep trinkets fill the bins and aisles at stores.
There is a shopping and purchasing frenzy leading up to CNY, although people typically aren't making purchases as gifts, rather this is the time of the year you purchase new clothes, shoes, etc., to channel good luck. The New Year is a period of rebirth which includes a new wardrobe.
There are a few popup stores but office supply stores serve as the primary selling of CNY decorations. Decorations are mostly the streamer and hanging variety. There's no Santa Claus equivalent so the yearly animal fills the void. Statues, stuffed animals, and all sorts of sheep trinkets fill the bins and aisles at stores.
There is a shopping and purchasing frenzy leading up to CNY, although people typically aren't making purchases as gifts, rather this is the time of the year you purchase new clothes, shoes, etc., to channel good luck. The New Year is a period of rebirth which includes a new wardrobe.
Office Supply / CNY Decorations Store
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Decorations Hanging Outside Storefront
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Dragon Outside Storefront
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Lamb Stuffed Animals
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Red Bras...a.k.a. Lucky Lingerie
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RED ENVELOPES
The one gift that is consistent from year to year is the red envelope. The Chinese pioneered the concept of giving cash as a present and the red envelope, typically with gold writing, serves the purpose of distributing cash among relatives and friends.
The one gift that is consistent from year to year is the red envelope. The Chinese pioneered the concept of giving cash as a present and the red envelope, typically with gold writing, serves the purpose of distributing cash among relatives and friends.
Red Money Envelopes
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And Children's Variey - Frozen is Very Popular This Year
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COMMERCIALIZATION
The commercialization of CNY has picked up in recent years. Hong Konger's recall that just five years ago shops and restaurants closed for all three days, now they only close for the first day, and some don't even close on New Year's day. Most restaurants shut down too, although enough stay open to not worry about where you'll be able to eat. The Sheep starts to appear in commercials and billboard advertisements. If the products are being marketed to younger children the sheep becomes a cute lamb and in other situations it turns into a dominant looking ram. |
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Sometimes it's a sheep called a goat and sometimes it's just a goat (an example of how complicated the Chinese language is that even among themselves they can't always distinguish what animals they are talking about). Either way it's a small farm animal with horns.
Displays, not unlike a Santa Clause workshop, start to appear in the common areas of malls. New Year's music pipes over loudspeakers. There's holiday films, TV specials, and annual events to mark the holiday. The shopping, which always seems to be in at a max level, has a slight uptick, and the crowds in Causeway Bay and other shopping areas are noticeably larger.
Displays, not unlike a Santa Clause workshop, start to appear in the common areas of malls. New Year's music pipes over loudspeakers. There's holiday films, TV specials, and annual events to mark the holiday. The shopping, which always seems to be in at a max level, has a slight uptick, and the crowds in Causeway Bay and other shopping areas are noticeably larger.
Mall Displays
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Mall Displays
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Subway Advertisements
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